Smoked Mozzarella Braciole and Polenta - A Slow-Cooked Italian Feast

I wish I could explain why I do the things I do.  For instance, when I have all the energy in the world, sometimes I make ramen noodles for dinner.  But this weekend, after a Saturday night Halloween party that may or may not have ended just before dawn, I decided to spend Sunday grocery shopping and cooking while watching football.  Any person in his right mind would have just ordered pizza, but not crazy little me...I made an Italian feast featuring braciole with smoked mozzarella and prosciutto, served alongside rich polenta with more smoked mozzarella.  Sure, my Monday may have been a wee bit less heinous if I'd napped on Sunday afternoon, but then I wouldn't have these fabulous leftovers!  Try these recipes sometime when you have a free afternoon and nothing to do.

Sauce for Braciole

generous splash olive oil
1 small brown onion, chopped
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
3 bay leaves
3 dried chiles
3  28-oz cans chopped tomatoes (use a good Italian brand)
1 cup dry white wine
generous amount of freshly ground black pepper
2 t. dried oregano
1 t. fennel seeds, cracked*
pinch kosher salt

In a large, heavy bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat.  Add the onion, garlic, bay leaves, and chile, and cook until the onion has softened up a bit, stirring occasionally. 

Add the tomatoes, wine, pepper, oregano, fennel, and salt.  Stir, reduce heat to low, and cover.  Stir every 5-10 minutes while you are preparing the braciole.  The sauce is ready whenever you are.



Braciole with Smoked Mozzarella and Prosciutto

for the stuffing:
4 oz. smoked mozzarella, shredded
1/2 cup bread crumbs (I prefer Pastene brand)
1-2 garlic cloves, minced
a few grinds black pepper
2 slices of prosciutto, minced
6 slices genoa salami, minced
handful minced parsley

3-4 slices top round steak, sliced and pounded very thin, about 1.5 pounds total
Splash olive oil

In a small mixing bowl, combine the stuffing ingredients and stir until well-blended.  Set aside.

Lay the steak slices on a flat surface and spoon the stuffing over each slice in a thin, even layer, leaving about 1" clear on one edge (as shown in photo).  Roll the steak jelly-roll style (or maki roll style, for you sushi aficionados out there, or Zig-Zags style, for connoisseurs of other stuff..), keeping the stuffing tightly enclosed within the steak.  Secure the roll with twine or those handy little silicone rings that look like rubber bands (these can be purchased in most kitchenware shops or online through Amazon.com).   Repeat with the remaining steak slices.  Reserve any leftover stuffing

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan.  Shake the pan so that the olive oil evenly coats the surface of the pan, then add the beef rolls and brown on all sides.  Depending on the size of your pan, you may have to work in batches.  Once the rolls are browned, add them to the simmering tomato sauce.  Cook on low heat, covered, for 1.5 hours.

Once the rolls have cooked, remove the twine or silicone bands, then slice each roll into 1/2" rounds.  Spoon over a bit of the tomato sauce, and serve alongside Smoked Mozzarella Polenta.

Smoked Mozzarella Polenta

2 cups water
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup instant polenta (I prefer Pastene brand)
4 oz. smoked mozzarella, shredded
handful minced parsley
splash olive oil
leftover braciole stuffing (optional)

In a large, heavy saucepan, bring the water and chicken broth to a rolling boil.  Add the polenta in a slow stream, stirring constantly, and reduce the heat to low as soon as all the polenta has been added.  Continue to stir constantly.  Once the polenta has thickened and begins to cling to the sides of the pan, add the mozzarella, parsley, and olive oil.  Continue to stir for another minute or so until the polenta is quite thick, then pour and scrape it into a shallow baking dish.  Set aside until the polenta has set. 

If you are using the leftover braciole stuffing, sprinkle it over the surface of the polenta in an even layer and set aside until the polenta is set.  Just before serving, place under the broiler for 2-3 minutes, or until the bread crumbs begin to turn golden.  Serve alongside braciole with a bit of tomato sauce.

Puttin' the Jack in Jack O'Lantern

OK, so without the open flame and the carvings, it's not a true Jack O'Lantern, it's really just a mutilated pumpkin.  Tomato, tomaaahhto, right?  The point is, I wanted to drink out of a hollowed-out pumpkin and I wanted to drink whiskey.  The result?  A festive, creatively presented whiskey punch that makes me feel like Martha Stewart and Ernest Hemingway's love child. 

Try this recipe and presentation at your next autumn gathering! 


Pumpkin Punch Bowl & Cups

1 large pumpkin
mini-pumpkins
cinnamon sticks

mini-pumpkin cup

Using a sharp, serrated knife, slice the stem top off of the large pumpkin.  Scoop out the seeds and the flesh (reserve the seeds if you want to make toasted pumpkin seeds - recipe below!), and scrape away the mushy pulp until the inside is smooth.  Set aside.

Repeat the above step for each of the mini-pumpkins, and place a cinnamon stick in each mini-pumpkin cup. 

Once your pumpkin punch bowl set is complete, you need to determine how much punch to make to fill your pumpkin.  To determine how much punch you'll need to make, fill a 16 oz/500mL measure with water and pour it into the pumpkin.  Repeat until the pumpkin is full, noting how many measures it takes to fill your pumpkin.  This is the number you'll use to multiply the punch recipe.  For example, if you've used three measures to fill the pumpkin, multiply the ingredients in the punch recipe by 3.  So, if you're one of those brats who sat in math class and said, "When am I ever going to need to know any of this crap?!?," guess what?  Now is that time.   

Once you've determined the volume your pumpkin will hold, immediately pour out the water and pat the inside of the pumpkin dry with paper towels.  Set aside until you're ready to pour in the punch.



"Jack in Jack O'Lantern" Punch

this recipe will fill one 16-oz/500mL measure - multiply as necessary

2.5 oz. Jack Daniels whiskey
1.5 oz. apricot brandy
1 1-inch cinnamon stick, cracked
1/4 t. whole cloves, crushed*
1/4 t. cardamom seeds, crushed*
1 12oz. bottle ginger beer

Combine the whiskey, apricot brandy, cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom in a large cocktail shaker.  Shake well for 30 seconds, then set aside for 15-20 minutes.  Shake again, then add the ginger beer.  Give it a few swirls, but do not shake. 

Using a strainer, pour the cocktail mixture into your pumpkin punch bowl.  Ladle the punch into the mini-pumpkin cups, and sip through the cinnamon stick. 

* to crush the spices, simply place them between two spoons and squeeze the spoons together.  This helps release the flavor.



Toasted Pumpkin Seeds

seeds from 1 pumpkin
kosher salt
1 T. olive oil
1 T. smoked paprika, divided in half

Preheat the oven to 400 and bring 3-4 cups of water to a boil.  In the meantime, rinse the pumpkin seeds in a strainer until all the pulp is rinsed away and they are slippery, but not slimy.     
Add 1 T. of kosher salt to the water for every 1/2 c. of pumpkin seeds.  Once the salt is dissolved, add the pumpkin seeds and boil for 10 minutes, then drain and let them cool until you can touch them. 

In a bowl, combine the olive oil and half the smoked paprika, then add the pumpkin seeds.  Toss until all seeds are coated, then spread on a baking sheet in a single layer.  Bake for 10-15 minutes, or until the seeds are golden, then remove from oven, sprinkle with the remaining paprika, and set aside to cool. 

Once they are cool, they make a quite addictive and very nutritious snack.  Some people crack the outer shells and only eat the inner seed, but I prefer the whole thing. 

Celebrating Simple Pleasures

Yesterday was the first time all season that I was able to go to the Copley Square Farmers' Market, which is my second favorite outdoor activity, second only to the beach. Wandering through the crowds to inspect all of the fresh, colorful fruits, vegetables, and flowers makes me feel like a kid in a candy store. It's like a mini-vacation - even with sirens and construction noise in the air, somehow I no longer feel like an impatient city dweller whose life revolves around a smartphone and a train schedule. Seeing bushels upon bushels of just-harvested carrots, potatoes, beets, eggplants, lettuces, herbs, peppers, and tomatoes makes me wish I had the luxury of spending every day in a kitchen rather than an office. I'd give just about anything for more time to slice, to saute, to create. The joy of having someone walk into my kitchen and say, "It smells great in here, what are you making?" is a lot more satisfying than the text message I get when my paycheck has been deposited into my bank account. Keeping that in mind, I decided to spend my vacation day cooking and celebrating. What was I celebrating? Being alive and being able to enjoy the simple things.

Picking out my goodies

I circled Copley Square about four times, jotting down mental post-its noting whose lettuces looked the best, which stands had fresh herbs, etc. By the time I left, I'd picked up some lettuces, a bunch of fresh dill, a ball of local smoked mozzarella and a log of goat cheese, a few leeks, and fennel bulbs and a bag of wild arugula from Siena Farms, a local farm that supplies many of Boston's best restaurants. Siena Farms' fennel bulbs were smaller and flatter than the ones spotted in the produce coolers at the Mega-Mart; they were also much more fragrant. I was curious about these bulbs - was this variety of fennel different than the common kind? I did some research, and as it turns out, the gender of the plant determines the shape of the bulb. The male bulbs are larger and rounder, while the female bulbs are smaller in size and flatter in shape. Who knew?!?

Although I had plenty of goodies from the market, my mission was not done. I hopped on the green line and headed to the North End to pick up some seafood and prosciutto. At Mercato del Mare, I stared blankly at the case, trying to get inspired. Liz recommended their swordfish, so I picked up a swordfish steak, and while she was packing up the fish, inspiration struck and I also purchased a pound of calamari and some cockle clams. I was going to make seafood risotto with the leeks and the fennel I'd picked up at the market. Then, I walked over to Salumeria Italiana for their amazing prosciutto. The prosciutto would be wonderful with that wild arugula! On my way back to the train, I walked past Maria's Pastry. I almost made it, but their torrone is like a magnet - I couldn't leave the neighborhood without a sweet treat. I couldn't decide between plain and pistachio, which I took to be a sign that I was supposed to buy both.

I only had one more stop before I could go home and get started on my menu - I needed prosecco. Celebrating a great day would be incomplete without something bubbly in my glass. Once that was in my bag, it was time to go home and create.

Just as a writer has pens, an artist as brushes, and a musician has an instrument, I have knives, pots, and pans. I gathered my paints and my canvases, and I got to work on creating a lovely antipasto plate and a scrumptious seafood risotto. Try these recipes for yourself, and raise a glass in celebration of the simple things.

Individual Antipasto Plates

serves two

2 handfuls wild arugula

12 ripe figs, halved
4-6 thin slices of prosciutto
2 T. crumbled gorgonzola
2-3 t. chestnut honey
olive oil
lemon wedges

Prepare each plate as follows:

Place a handful of the wild arugula in the center of the plate. Surround the arugula with a ring of fig halves, skin-side down. Tear the prosciutto lengthwise into thin strips. Place the strips around the outer edge of the figs, and place one piece in the center on top of the arugula. Place a gorgonzola crumble in the center of each fig half. Drizzle a teaspoon or so of chestnut honey over the ring of figs. Splash a few drops of olive oil on the arugula, and squeeze with a bit of lemon.

Serve with prosecco.

Cockle clams

Shellfish Risotto

generous splash olive
1 leek, sliced (white part only)
1 large or 2 small fennel bulbs, thinly sliced, a few fronds reserved for garnish
1 1/2 cups arborio rice
1/2 cup prosecco
5 cups shellfish stock (see below)
1 pound calamari, mostly tentacles - slice tubes into 1/4" rings
1/2 pound cockles or other small clams
1 T. capers
sea salt
parsley, to garnish

Heat the shellfish stock to a low simmer.  In a separate large, heavy bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat, then add the leek and fennel.  Saute for about 5 minutes, then add the arborio rice.  Cook for another 2-3 minutes, stirring frequently, then add the prosecco.  Lower the heat, and stir continuously until the prosecco has been absorbed. 

Now, add a half-cup of shellfish stock.  Stir continuously until the liquid has been absorbed.  Repeat this process until the rice has absorbed the liquid and is almost fully cooked.  In the meantime, place the calamari and the clams in another pan with a bit of olive oil and a splash of the shellfish stock.  Cover, and steam until the clams have open and the calamari has firmed up.  Set aside a few clams in their shells for garnish, remove the meat from the rest and discard the shells. 

When the rice is almost fully cooked and you're on the last addition of liquid, add the calamari, clams, and capers.  Continue to stir until the last of the liquid is absorbed.  Finish with sea salt.  Serve in individual bowls with a clam shell or two, garnished with fennel fronds. 

Shellfish Stock

Shellfish stock is easy to make.  Every time I eat shrimp or lobster, I save and freeze the shells.  Once you have a decent amount of shells, place them in a stockpot with enough water to cover all the shells, add a squirt of lemon juice, a few peppercorns, a pinch of sea salt, and a small handful of celery leaves.  Bring to a boil, then simmer until the broth is reduced a bit and the flavor has intensified.

In the Mood for a Quickie?

We've all had those days. You know the type - the days when crawling out of bed and getting dressed seems only slightly less horrific than being waterboarded with Clorox, or the days when your schedule is packed so full that you have to deliberately schedule time to use the bathroom. 

These are the days when I rely on a few quick and easy recipes that don't require many ingredients, don't require much time, and are so simple that I can prepare them in full-on zombie mode. These are the days when I'm in the mood for a quickie (that's what she said). 

The beauty of these recipes is that they're not only delicious, but they look and taste like they required a good deal of time and effort to prepare, so they're great to keep up your sleeves for those instances when you have unexpected houseguests!



Garlic and Chile Shrimp

Splash olive oil
Bay leaf
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 red chili peppers, sliced (Fresno chilis work well in this dish)
1 pound raw medium-sized shrimp, peeled (16/20s work best)

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over low-medium heat. Add the bay leaf, garlic, and chilis, and saute for 2-3 minutes, or until the garlic and chilis become fragrant.

While the garlic and chilis are cooking, pat the shrimp dry on paper towels. Once the garlic and chilis become fragrant, increase the heat to medium-high, then add the shrimps. Stir-fry the shrimp for 3-4 minutes, or until they’ve curled and turned opaque.

Serve hot with a bit of the cooking oil drizzled over them.

Pate-Stuffed Apples with Leeks and Cider

4 apples, cored and halved lengthwise, with a bit scooped out of the middle

1 cup hard cider*, plus more to thin the pate
1 cup chicken liver pate, brought to room temperature
Crushed potato crisps

Preheat the oven to 400. Place the sliced leek in a shallow baking dish, then place the apples skin-side down in the dish. Carefully pour in the hard cider, making sure that it doesn’t splash into the hollowed part of the apples. Bake for approximately 15 minutes.

While the apples are baking, thin the pate with a splash of hard cider until it reaches the consistency of frosting. Use the thinned pate to fill a pastry bag, or alternatively, a plastic baggie. If using the plastic baggie method, simply snip off the corner seam, as shown below:

After the apples have baked, use the pastry bag/plastic baggie to fill the apples with the pate. Once the apples are equally filled, sprinkle each with a pinch or two of the crushed potato crisps, then slice with a sharp knife and layer on individual plates. Spoon a bit of the cooked leeks on the plate next to the stuffed apple slices, and serve with glasses of hard cider.

* Magners is a popular and easy to find hard cider brand, but many small breweries are beginning to produce hard ciders - these are often worth the search!




Grilled Nectarines with Lemongrass Mint Balsamic Glaze

2 nectarines, halved
¼ c. Boston Olive Oil Co. Lemongrass & Mint White Balsamic Vinegar
3 T. powdered sugar, plus more to garnish.

Heat a grill or grill pan. Place the nectarine halves, cut side down, on the grill, and cook until lines have formed on the flesh. Set aside to cool.

In the meantime, whisk the vinegar and powdered sugar together to make the glaze. Set aside.

Once the grilled nectarines are cool enough to touch, slice lengthwise and arrange on individual plates. Drizzle with the glaze, then sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Baked Haddock

4 haddock fillets, approx 8 oz. each
2 oz. butter (approx half a stick), sliced into pats
Juice of 1 lemon
1 T. salt-packed capers, rinsed and drained
Chive- or shallot-based seasoning, such as Penzey’s Fox Point
Salt & pepper

Preheat the oven to 375. In the meantime, place the haddock fillets skin-side down in a baking dish lined with tinfoil. Place a few pats of butter on each fillet, then squeeze the lemon juice over the fillets. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until the fish flakes easily with a fork.

Once the fish is cooked, place each fillet on a plate, drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the liquid, sprinkle with the seasonings, and serve.

Blistered Poblano Peppers

2 poblano peppers, sliced into strips*

1 T. lime juice

Kosher salt or sea salt

Lime wedges, to garnish

Heat a large, preferably cast-iron pan over high heat.  The pan is hot enough when a drop of water dances across the surface of the pan rather than sizzling.  Once the pan is hot enough, add the peppers in an even layer (depending on the size of your pan, you may have to do this in batches, as each pepper slice should touch the bottom of the pan). 

Cook the peppers for a minute or two – you’ll hear the peppers begin to “pop,” and there may be a bit of smoke.  Toss the peppers – you should see dark blisters on the skin.  Once these blisters form, stir-fry them for another 2-3 minutes, or until they are softened, but retain a crunch. 

Immediately after cooking the peppers, transfer them to a large bowl.  Sprinkle the lime juice and a few pinches of salt over the peppers, and toss a few times.  Serve on individual plates with lime wedges. 

*Poblanos are one of the milder chili peppers, but they’re still hot enough to sting like hell if you stick your fingers in your eyes.  I learned that the hard way when I took my contacts out after making these.  Don’t be an idiot like me and assume that because they don’t taste hot, they won’t burn you.

Ingredient Spotlight - Bitter Melon

"Ugh, I HATE bitter melon!" my friend proclaimed, inspiring a sarcastic "Once again, with feeling!" from me.  "My mom makes bitter melon, I think she only cooks it when she's mad at me," he said.


Bitter melon

We were chatting about fruits and vegetables that are hard to find in the US, and my mention of bitter melon sparked an immediate, and quite heated, reaction.  That was the moment I knew I had to get my hands on a bitter melon and see for myself why it was my friend's most hated vegetable. 

Bitter melon is technically a fruit, although it is eaten as a vegetable.  Interestingly, it is also widely used as a medicinal plant.  Some cultures use bitter melon to treat ailments and diseases such as malaria, cancer, and some viruses.  Bitter melon does in fact contain compounds that are useful in medicine.  The fruit grows in tropical and sub-tropical climates and looks like a pale, ridged cucumber.  Some specialty stores and higher-end markets will sell bitter melon from time to time, but you're far more likely to find it if you live in a city with a good-sized Asian population.  I found mine in Boston's Chinatown. 

Once it was time to taste-test this new and exciting veggie, I realized that I had no clue how to prepare it - does the skin stay on?  Are there seeds, and if so, are they edible?  Those were questions for Google.  Turns out, the skin is edible, and while the seeds and the pith are technically edible, removing them takes away the overwhelming bitterness.  Just slice lengthwise and remove the seeds as you would from a cucumber (I, however, cut a cross-section so that you could see what the inside looked like).

The verdict?  I loved it!  It keeps the crunchy, watery texture of a cucumber when stir-fried, and I thought it tasted like a grassy cross between artichokes and chicory.  When I mentioned that to my bitter melon-hating friend, his reaction was, "Exactly.  I don't know why you would want to eat that."  I liked bitter melon for the same reason I love broccoli rabe, escarole, and radicchio - no, not because they're Italian - I like the taste of bitter vegetables.  Bitter melon is certainly not for everyone; it's one of those veggies you either love or you hate.  That being said, if you ever see a bitter melon, try it and decide for yourself! 


Bitter Melon Stir-Fry

boiling water
10 dried shiitake mushrooms
10 dried tree ear mushrooms*
2 T. coconut oil or vegetable oil
2 shallots, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 T. dried shrimp (optional)
1 bitter melon, sliced

For the stir-fry sauce:
1/4 c. low sodium soy sauce
2 T. rice wine or dry sherry
1/2 t. szechuan peppercorns
1 t. red chili flakes
1 t. grated ginger
1/4 t. white pepper
1 t. cornstarch
1 T. cold water

cooked rice, to serve
toasted sesame seeds, to garnish

Dried mushrooms

First, prepare the dried mushrooms by placing them in a bowl and covering them with boiling water (approx. 1/2 cup).  Let them soak for about 10 minutes.  In the meantime, prepare the stir-fry sauce by combining all ingredients but the cornstarch and water in a bowl.  In a separate bowl, blend the cornstarch into the cold water, then add this to the sauce.

Now, drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess water.  Slice them into 1/4" strips and set aside. 

Heat a wok or large frying pan over high heat.  Add the coconut or vegetable oil, and once it is melted, add the shallots, garlic, and dried shrimp, if using.  Stir-fry for a minute or so, then add the bitter melon and the sliced mushrooms.  Stir-fry for an additional 3-4 minutes. 

Finally, add the stir-fry sauce and continue to stir-fry until all the vegetables are coated and the sauce has thickened up a bit, approximately 2 minutes. 

Spoon into individual bowls of cooked rice and sprinkle with a generous pinch of toasted sesame seeds.

* These may also be labelled "cloud ear mushrooms" or simply "black fungus." 

"Good" Pizza Day at the Willy C!

Freshman year!

Eleven years ago, I was an ambitious, energetic college freshman at SUNY Fredonia.  Majoring in pre-law, I truly believed that the world was my oyster and that I had a bright, lucrative future ahead of me.  This was at the tail end of Clinton-era prosperity, before the 2000 election and the Florida recount, before 9/11, before I transferred to Northeastern University, before the wars, before the market crash, and before it dawned on me that life isn't going to be an endless string of bonus checks and fashionable parties, but rather a daily grind of putting the new cover sheets on my TPS reports.
 

Yours truly, at a good,
old-fashioned kegger...


Ahh, the year 2000.  After "surviving" Y2K, the days ahead seemed celebratory, and celebrate we did!  We shook our bon-bons.  We let the dogs out.  We let Sisqo see that thong-tha-thong-thong-thong.  Britney hadn't yet flashed her naughty bits, Facebook didn't exist, and Bostonians still groaned about The Curse of the Bambino. 

Kinda surreal.

I made some great friends at SUNY, a few of whom I still talk to regularly and am willing to get felt up by TSA to visit.  When I reminisce with these friends, one of the things we still talk about fondly from that era is the "good" pizza from the Willy C (or to all you non-Fredonians, The Williams Center, which is the hub of non-alcoholic student activity).

The "good" pizza was nothing more than thin-crust pizza margherita with a kick of garlic, but compared to Willy C's other pizza offerings, which featured doughy crust, cheap, greasy pepperoni, rubbery cheese (often burnt), metallic, bitter black olives, and absolutely tragic-looking bits of green pepper, the "good" pizza was reason to run to the nearest computer, log on to AOL Instant Messenger, and let everyone on your buddy list know that the Willy C was serving the "good" pizza! 

Two nights ago, I dreamed about the "good" pizza, and I wouldn't rest until I had it.  My options were limited - I could make some phone calls to SUNY's dining services office to see if it still existed, and if so, when they'd be serving it next, then hop on a plane, rent a car, drive to campus, and wait until the "good" pizza came out of the oven, or I could try to duplicate it.  I chose the latter.

If you went to SUNY Fredonia for more than 5 minutes and you want a trip down memory lane that doesn't involve Scummy's, Coyle's, Brigham Road, or high times at the Chinese buffet with the suspiciously large 'chicken' wings, try this recipe at home sometime! 

The "Good" Pizza

1-2 roma tomatoes, sliced into 1/4" thick rings
1/2 lb. pizza dough
cornmeal
2-3 T. peppery olive oil
2-3 cloves garlic, pressed or sliced paper-thin
1 t. pesto, or 1 T. shredded basil leaves
a few grinds black pepper
1 cup shredded mozzarella

Preheat the oven to 465.  Lay the tomato slices on paper towels to remove excess moisture.  In the meantime, sprinkle cornmeal on your pizza tray or cookie sheet and stretch the pizza dough so that a very thin crust is formed.  Place the dough on the cornmeal - this is the best way to prevent it from sticking. 

In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, garlic, pesto or basil, and pepper.  Mix well, then brush over the pizza crust, leaving 1/2" uncoated around the edge.  Top with an even layer of shredded mozzarella, then place the tomato slices on top of the mozzarella. 

Bake for 13-15 minutes, then remove from oven, let the pizza cool for a few minutes, and slice and serve. 

Salad - A Love Story

Poor salad.  It gets such a bad rap.  Long thought of as "chick food," mass media and advertising perpetuate the myth that salads are never eaten because they're tasty and satisfying, but because the eater is demonstrating his or her weight control efforts and trying to be "good" that day. 

I'm head over heels in love with salad, but I keep our relationship on the down low.  I rarely order salads in restaurants for the totally lame reason that I'm very thin and don't want to be judged and thought of as *that* girl - you know, the fat-free dressing on the side, ice water with lemon, cut off a pinkie before taking a bite of a bacon cheeseburger, "do I look fat?" type...I digress.  I know that I shouldn't let other people's nosy judgments affect my meal choices, but I do.  So I make my salads at home, and I make them taste awesome! 

My favorite salad recipe is loaded with greens ranging from mild and buttery to hearty and bitter, and it features flavor-packed anchovies, ripe tomatoes, hard-cooked egg, crunchy omega-3 loaded toasted flax seeds, distinctive seasonings like pink peppercorns and lavender flowers, all topped off with peppery olive oil and a squeeze of tart lemon juice.  I don't use a salad bowl; I eat from a Corelle 2-quart serving bowl.  I like to eat my industrial-sized salads with homemade garlic bread, charcuterie, and wine.  Put it this way - I can turn "rabbit food" into gluttony.  I know that people who belong to the Church of Our Savior Calorie Counting will probably shake their heads and immediately write me off as a lunatic when they see that I'm serving a salad alongside slices of fatty pork sausage and a carb dish that uses 1/2 cup of butter, but guess what?  Some people eat salad not because they have an irrational phobia of calories, but simply because - GASP - it tastes good! 

The key to a meal this simple is to use the best possible products you can buy.  Don't use bottled salad dressing - all that's needed to dress a salad is a good extra-virgin olive oil and a lemon.  Don't buy a salami or summer sausage that's loaded with more chemicals than meat (I like Creminelli Salami Tartufo, a spicy pork sausage dotted with bits of black truffle).  Why anyone buys that nitrate-loaded mall kiosk shit is beyond me - once you find a good brand and a seasoning style that you like, you'll never eat that salted & petrified dog food again.  And please don't desecrate my garlic bread recipe by using something that's been on a truck or a shelf for five days; buy a baguette from a local bakery that bakes its goodies on the premises.  As for butter, it is worth it to seek out European-style butters, which have a higher butterfat percentage than American brands.  And for Pete's sake, banish from your brain the thought that eating salad is a merely a means to an end. 


My All-Time Favorite Dinner Salad

2 cups oak leaf lettuce, torn into bite-sized pieces
1 cup chicory or dandelion greens, torn into bite-sized pieces
handful baby arugula
3 anchovy fillets, minced
1 hard-cooked egg, chopped
1 T. finely minced onion
1 T. capers, rinsed
a few black olives, sliced
3 cherry tomatoes, quartered
generous splash olive oil
salt & pepper
pinch pink peppercorns
sprinkle of Herbes de Provence
sprinkle of lavender flowers*
sprinkle of toasted flax seeds
sprinkle of toasted pignoli
squeeze of fresh lemon

In a large salad bowl, combine the lettuce, chicory or dandelion, arugula, anchovy, egg, onion, capers, olives, and tomatoes.  Splash the olive oil directly into the bowl, then add the salt, pepper, pink peppercorns, Herbes de Provence, toasted flax seeds, and toasted pignoli.  Toss well until all the lettuce leaves are coated with oil.  Squeeze in the fresh lemon juice, toss again, and serve with garlic bread, sliced salami, and a crisp white wine, such as Pinot Grigio.

Garlic Bread

1/2 cup European-style butter, softened to room temperature
2 cloves garlic, pressed or sliced paper-thin
1 T. peppery olive oil
1 small baguette, sliced on the diagonal

In a small bowl, combine the butter, garlic and olive oil.  In the meantime, heat your broiler and toast the baguette slices for 1-2 minutes on each side, until they are golden but not burnt. 

Spread each toasted baguette slice with the garlic/butter/oil mixture, then place in the broiler with the oven door open for another 15-20 seconds or so, or until the butter mix has completely melted and seeped into the bread.  Serve on a plate with 1/4" thick slices of salami. 

* Make sure you are using lavender flowers intended for consumption rather than potpourri - non-edible flowers are often loaded with chemicals and preservatives

Linguine with Sausage, Tomatoes, and Broccoli Rabe

It's been quite some time since I've posted a recipe that didn't highlight an ingredient or feature a culinary backstory rivaling the Old Testament in word count, so today I offer you a basic, straightforward recipe that is both easy and fun to prepare.  All of the ingredients used are simple and easy to find, but if for some reason you cannot find broccoli rabe, kale, escarole, or collard greens would be acceptable substitutes. 

Linguine with Sausage, Tomatoes, and Broccoli Rabe

1 lb. dried linguine

splash olive oil

1 lb. hot Italian sausage, removed from casings

1 onion, quartered lengthwise, then sliced

small bunch broccoli rabe, chopped into bite-sized bits (approx. 4 cups)

1 28oz. can whole tomatoes, or 2 lbs. fresh tomatoes
2 t. fennel seeds
2 t. dried oregano
1 T. butter
salt and pepper
grated pecorino, to serve

Cook the pasta.  In the meantime, heat a generous splash of olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat.  Add the sausage and brown it, separating it into bite-sized chunks with a wooden spoon as it cooks.  Cook for a minute or two, then add the sliced onion.  Cook for approximately 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft. 

Next, add the chopped broccoli rabe and saute for about 5 more minutes, stirring occasionally, until the leafy bits of the broccoli rabe have wilted. 

Now, add the liquid from the canned tomatoes to the pot.  Take each whole tomato and crush it in your hand over the pot, as shown in the photo to the right.  I like to think about the person(s) at the top of my shit list when I complete this step - it's mildly therapeutic.  Alternatively (but not nearly as emotionally satisfying), if you are using fresh tomatoes, simply chop them and add them to the pot along with a splash of the pasta cooking water. 

Once the sausage, broccoli rabe, and tomato sauce has cooked for at least 10-15 minutes, the cooked pasta can be added.  The trick is to add the pasta when it is cooked but still slightly firm, as it will continue to cook after you add it to the sauce - nobody likes mushy linguine. 

Once you've added the pasta to the pot with the sauce, toss gently so that each strand is coated.  Add the butter, salt, and pepper, and toss again until the butter has melted.  Serve in individual bowls, topped with freshly grated pecorino romano.

Ingredient Spotlight - Concord Grapes

Concord grapes.  Their unmistakable aroma caught me by surprise as I scanned a produce market with my mom.  I picked up the container of grapes, breathed in their scent, and put them in my basket.  "What are you going to do with those?" my mom asked.

"No idea," I replied.  "Smell them?" 

Just one sniff of Concord grapes always manages to transport me right back to my childhood in Erie, Pennsylvania.  For those unfamiliar with the dot on the map where I spent the first 18 years of my life, Erie is home to more than decaying industry, lake effect snow, and the infamous pizza bomber.  Seated on the shore of the shallowest Great Lake, Erie has miles of sandy beaches and truly gorgeous sunsets.  Head east on PA Route 5, pointing away from the rusted out city, and you'll find acre after acre of vineyards belonging to local wineries, where seemingly endless rows of native grapes grow atop cliffs overlooking the lake's blue waves. 

As a child, I had access to a grapevine.  Yup, a single grapevine.  A sore thumb in my working-class neighborhood of brick rowhouses, postage-stamp yards, and blue-collar folks more loyal to beer than Barolo, my neighbor's vine of Concord grapes grew along the wire fence separating her yard from ours.  Although the scent of the grapes was intoxicating in the fall, my mom's flower garden didn't appreciate the shadows cast by the grapevine's broad leaves.  My neighbor, who canned and preserved whatever she could get her hands on, often juiced the grapes.  I don't remember her doing this so much in later years, but man, oh man, did those grapes smell delicious. 

Reminiscing aside, I still had no idea what to do with my grapes after I purchased them.  I don't know how to make wine, and even if I did, Concords are a "foxy" grape ("foxy" refers to a musty characteristic in grapes), and as such, they aren't generally used in winemaking.  Concords are pretty tart to eat out-of-hand, and their large seeds offer a crunchy, bitter surprise to the unsuspecting eater.  I wasn't quite convinced that I wanted to use the grapes as anything more than a catalyst to ignite a stroll down memory lane, but in the end, I decided it was time to make new memories and a new recipe. 



Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Concord Grape and Wild Boar Bacon Reduction

1 pork tenderloin, about 1.5 pounds
1 c. Concord grapes, halved
2 large garlic cloves, minced
2 T. olive oil
2 T. balsamic vinegar
2-3 sage leaves, minced
1 T. coarsely ground black pepper
1 T. butter
2 ounces wild boar bacon, cut in 1/4" dice*
1 small shallot, finely minced
1/3 c. light-bodied white wine
1/3 c. chicken or ham broth
Concord grapes on the stem, to garnish

Combine the grapes, garlic, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, sage leaves, and pepper in a large glass or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid.  Using a potato masher or the back of a fork, mash all the ingredients together until a fragrant paste is formed.  Place the pork in the dish with the grape paste, rubbing the paste on the pork.  Marinate up to 24 hours, shaking the dish occasionally.  The longer you marinate the pork, the fuller the flavor will be. 

When you are ready to cook the pork, heat a grill or grill pan over high heat.  In the meantime, brush the grape marinade off the pork, reserving the marinade.  Grill the pork on each side until no pink shows.  Each side should take about 5 minutes; the pork is ready to turn when the pork easily releases from the grill/grill pan.  If you are using a grill pan, transfer the pork loin to a shallow ovenproof dish or a baking sheet lined with foil, and bake for 10-15 minutes.  This step is not necessary if using a charcoal grill. 

While grilling the meat, make the grape and boar bacon reduction.  Place the reserved marinade in a small saucepan with the wine and chicken broth.  Bring to a quick boil, then reduce heat to a low simmer.  Keep covered so liquid does not evaporate, and simmer for about 10 minutes. 

In a separate saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat.  Add the diced wild boar bacon and saute until the fat has melted and the boar bacon is crispy.  Add the minced shallot and saute for another 3-5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the shallot is soft and translucent.  Do not let the shallot burn. 

Now it is time to add the marinade liquid.  Place a very fine sieve (or a strainer lined with cheesecloth) over the saucepan containing the boar bacon and the shallot.  Pour the contents of the marinade pan through the sieve, pressing the remaining solids with the back of a spoon to release as much liquid as possible.  When all the liquid has been squeezed out, discard the solids and bring the grape liquid to a boil, and whisk the sauce until it begins to thicken.  If it does not thicken up, you can "cheat" by blending 1 T. cold water with 1/2 t. cornstarch, and then whisking this into the sauce. 

Once the meat is done, take it off the grill or out of the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes.  Slice into 1/2" thick rounds, and arrange the rounds over polenta squares.  Spoon the grape sauce over, and garnish with a small bunch of Concord grapes. 

* If you cannot find wild boar bacon, you can substitute regular bacon or pancetta.  Wild boar bacon is available by mail from Savenor's, one of my local butcher shops.

Ingredient Spotlight - Ricotta Salata

Most people are familiar with ricotta cheese.  Used to stuff pasta and cannoli, ricotta is made from whey left over after cheese production.  When ricotta cheese is pressed, salted, and aged, it becomes ricotta salata.

Ricotta salata is similar in texture to feta, but it is milder and much less salty.  Traditionally used in shaved or grated form to add a finishing touch to dishes, its fresh, milky flavor is a pleasant addition to any salad containing tomato, cucumber, or cold, cooked grains.  Ricotta salata can also be used as a lighter, less pronounced substitute for parmesan or pecorino when finishing a risotto or a simple pasta dish. 

If you are not fortunate enough to live in a city with a large Italian population, ricotta salata may be difficult to locate, as it is not a common or mass-produced variety.  Italian markets, specialty shops and better supermarkets are good sources, but if you cannot find ricotta salata, it can be purchased online.  If you can get your hands on this cheese, do try it in the recipe below!


Spaghetti with Fresh Tomatoes, Green Onions, and Ricotta Salata

1 lb. spaghetti or linguine
splash olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds fresh tomatoes, diced
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 green onions, sliced into rings
salt and pepper to taste
ricotta salata*

Cook the pasta.  In the meantime, heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat.  Add the garlic and cook until the garlic becomes fragrant, approximately 3-5 minutes.  Do not let the garlic burn.

Add the tomatoes and the wine.  Cook for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally until the liquid has reduced and the tomatoes begin to break down. 

Add the sliced green onions, salt, and pepper.  Cook for about five minutes, or until the onions' flavor has mellowed a bit.  Do not let them become soft and mushy. 

Drain the cooked spaghetti and dress it with a splash of olive oil.  Divide the cooked pasta among plates, and spoon the sauce over the hot pasta.  Using a vegetable peeler, shave your desired amount of ricotta salata over each individual bowl. 

* If you cannot find ricotta salata, it can be purchased online.