"No idea," I replied. "Smell them?"
Just one sniff of Concord grapes always manages to transport me right back to my childhood in Erie, Pennsylvania. For those unfamiliar with the dot on the map where I spent the first 18 years of my life, Erie is home to more than decaying industry, lake effect snow, and the infamous pizza bomber. Seated on the shore of the shallowest Great Lake, Erie has miles of sandy beaches and truly gorgeous sunsets. Head east on PA Route 5, pointing away from the rusted out city, and you'll find acre after acre of vineyards belonging to local wineries, where seemingly endless rows of native grapes grow atop cliffs overlooking the lake's blue waves.
As a child, I had access to a grapevine. Yup, a single grapevine. A sore thumb in my working-class neighborhood of brick rowhouses, postage-stamp yards, and blue-collar folks more loyal to beer than Barolo, my neighbor's vine of Concord grapes grew along the wire fence separating her yard from ours. Although the scent of the grapes was intoxicating in the fall, my mom's flower garden didn't appreciate the shadows cast by the grapevine's broad leaves. My neighbor, who canned and preserved whatever she could get her hands on, often juiced the grapes. I don't remember her doing this so much in later years, but man, oh man, did those grapes smell delicious.
Reminiscing aside, I still had no idea what to do with my grapes after I purchased them. I don't know how to make wine, and even if I did, Concords are a "foxy" grape ("foxy" refers to a musty characteristic in grapes), and as such, they aren't generally used in winemaking. Concords are pretty tart to eat out-of-hand, and their large seeds offer a crunchy, bitter surprise to the unsuspecting eater. I wasn't quite convinced that I wanted to use the grapes as anything more than a catalyst to ignite a stroll down memory lane, but in the end, I decided it was time to make new memories and a new recipe.
Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Concord Grape and Wild Boar Bacon Reduction
1 c. Concord grapes, halved
2 large garlic cloves, minced
2 T. olive oil
2 T. balsamic vinegar
2-3 sage leaves, minced
1 T. coarsely ground black pepper
1 T. butter
2 ounces wild boar bacon, cut in 1/4" dice*
1 small shallot, finely minced
1/3 c. light-bodied white wine
1/3 c. chicken or ham broth
Concord grapes on the stem, to garnish
Combine the grapes, garlic, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, sage leaves, and pepper in a large glass or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. Using a potato masher or the back of a fork, mash all the ingredients together until a fragrant paste is formed. Place the pork in the dish with the grape paste, rubbing the paste on the pork. Marinate up to 24 hours, shaking the dish occasionally. The longer you marinate the pork, the fuller the flavor will be.
When you are ready to cook the pork, heat a grill or grill pan over high heat. In the meantime, brush the grape marinade off the pork, reserving the marinade. Grill the pork on each side until no pink shows. Each side should take about 5 minutes; the pork is ready to turn when the pork easily releases from the grill/grill pan. If you are using a grill pan, transfer the pork loin to a shallow ovenproof dish or a baking sheet lined with foil, and bake for 10-15 minutes. This step is not necessary if using a charcoal grill.
While grilling the meat, make the grape and boar bacon reduction. Place the reserved marinade in a small saucepan with the wine and chicken broth. Bring to a quick boil, then reduce heat to a low simmer. Keep covered so liquid does not evaporate, and simmer for about 10 minutes.
In a separate saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the diced wild boar bacon and saute until the fat has melted and the boar bacon is crispy. Add the minced shallot and saute for another 3-5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the shallot is soft and translucent. Do not let the shallot burn.
Now it is time to add the marinade liquid. Place a very fine sieve (or a strainer lined with cheesecloth) over the saucepan containing the boar bacon and the shallot. Pour the contents of the marinade pan through the sieve, pressing the remaining solids with the back of a spoon to release as much liquid as possible. When all the liquid has been squeezed out, discard the solids and bring the grape liquid to a boil, and whisk the sauce until it begins to thicken. If it does not thicken up, you can "cheat" by blending 1 T. cold water with 1/2 t. cornstarch, and then whisking this into the sauce.
Once the meat is done, take it off the grill or out of the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes. Slice into 1/2" thick rounds, and arrange the rounds over polenta squares. Spoon the grape sauce over, and garnish with a small bunch of Concord grapes.
* If you cannot find wild boar bacon, you can substitute regular bacon or pancetta. Wild boar bacon is available by mail from Savenor's, one of my local butcher shops.
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