Christmas 2010

This weekend, I celebrated Christmas with my mom in Portsmouth, NH. As is the case with most major holidays, my mom did all the cooking, as she has for years. Sure, I pitched in here and there (someone had to operate the salad spinner and open the Chianti), but the hard labor was my mom’s territory. She began planning well in advance of my arrival, and as always, she pulled off a delicious and delectable Christmas dinner.

This year, I wasn’t as overcome by the Christmas Spirit as I have been in the past. My roommates and I are hardly ever home, so we didn’t bother to decorate. My head has been spinning due to the stress that accompanied leaving my last job to advance into a new position. I’ve had a roller-coaster of a month with many ups and downs, and Boston didn’t even get any snow until December 20. I wasn’t exactly bouncing around in my Santa hat singing jolly carols. Thankfully, I was able to look past the harsh realities of adulthood because I got to spend the holiday with my mom in her decorated living room while the familiar smells of her cooking drifted in from the kitchen. We watched Christmas Vacation and drove around in the snow to admire (ok, make fun of) people’s decorations. Those things helped my mind decompress, and I was able to muster up some Christmas spirit. Thankfully, while I do enjoy the trappings of the season, my interpretation of the true meaning of Christmas is centered around what’s on the dining room table and who occupies the chairs.

Obviously we had several meals while I was home, but I’ll focus on our Christmas Eve and Christmas Day dinners. Following Italian tradition, we've always served seafood on Christmas Eve. Unfortunately, my mom developed an allergy to fish and shellfish (she usually makes meat-free pasta fagioli), but she is always more than happy to supply me with some sort of freshly plucked ocean creature to throw into a pan with some garlic and olive oil. This year, I chose calamari and oysters. We stopped in at Seaport Fish, where I purchased a half-pound of fresh calamari with the heads still attached and the cuttlebones remaining in the tubes. This calamari was incredible, and it worked fabulously quick-cooked in a spicy tomato and wine broth, served over angel hair pasta (recipe below). I plumped some golden raisins in the wine broth, threw in a few capers, and I added a generous amount of thinly sliced garlic as well, which is typical of Sicilian cooking. Finally, a sprinkling of minced flat-leaf parsley adds a fresh foil to the sweet and spicy flavors.

5-inches of oyster!

Along with my calamari, I purchased a half-dozen oysters, and in doing so I turned myself on to a new oyster variety that I haven‘t seen before but will search for in the future. Typically, I buy Island Creek oysters which are easy to open, buttery-sweet, and perfect on the half-shell. Seaport Fish did not have any Island creeks, but they did have two other varieties in stock. Unfortunately, I don’t remember the name of the type I didn’t purchase, but when I asked which they recommended, I was steered towards the ginormous Wawenauk oysters from Maine. I chose these simply because I was told that they are easy to open - I certainly didn’t want any oyster drama on Christmas Eve! Each shell was almost the size of my hand and probably weighed about a pound. OK, maybe not a pound, but nobody would ever refer to these babies as “delicate.”

Readers, I must pause and ask a simple favor of you before I begin the next few sentences - please keep in mind that everything I’m about to say is in reference to oysters, and nothing else. Please keep your bacon, butter, and booze-soaked minds out of the gutter.  Wawenauks are larger than any oyster I’ve seen before, and after opening one, I observed that the meat was about twice the size of my usual Island Creeks. Although they are large, their size is not as difficult to accommodate as you may imagine. They are plump and meaty, but not cumbersome to swallow whole, and they taste sweet and briny like ocean water, without any hints of mineral or metallic flavor. I did not serve these with any sauces or dips, just a spritz of fresh-squeezed lemon juice is all I added to these meaty morsels, unless you count the complementary pinot grigio I sipped between shucks. (Double entendre-laden section complete). Although I purchased a half dozen, by the fourth oyster I was full. If you serve these to a crowd, I recommend two per person; they are incredibly rich.

On Christmas Day, my mom took control of the kitchen. While watching old movies, we nibbled on antipasti skewers containing grape tomatoes, bocconcini mozzarella, roasted red pepper strips, cannellini beans, and green olives. This recipe is so simple that it does not require a recipe - simply skewer all the ingredients onto toothpicks (or, for fancier presentation, cocktail picks or those cute little bamboo skewers with the curly tops), saving the halved grape tomatoes for last. Skewer them so that the cut side of the tomato is flat on the platter, making the skewers stand upright. These are perfect for a standing-room-only party, as they do not require utensils. She also followed in her family’s footsteps and brought out a plate of fresh dates stuffed with cream cheese. Dates are naturally very sweet - no refined sugar is necessary, making them a far healthier choice than the usual cookies and candy.

Finally, on to the dinner! My mom brought out the absolute best flavor I’ve ever had from a small beef tenderloin roast - perfectly pink in the center, with an unsurpassable natural flavor. Seasoned only with salt, pepper, and a little olive oil, it required nothing else. It was juicy, tender enough to cut with a butter knife, and bursting with flavor. She served this with horseradish whipped cream - only a little bit is necessary to complement the flavor of the roast, more than a small dab can be overwhelming.

Alongside the beef, we had braised fennel with butter and parmesan, and she made the most interesting veg/carb side I’ve had yet - individual escarole and polenta soufflés, topped with roasted red pepper butter. The soufflés were light and fluffy, yet enormously satisfying! The balance between polenta and escarole was perfect, as one flavor did not dominate. Once again, my mom took a holiday dinner and knocked it out of the park.

Somehow, I saved room for dessert - chocolate & whiskey mousse with chopped hazelnuts. Three of my favorite things, whipped and chilled in one small ramekin packed with delicious dessert flavor! Not too sweet, this was the perfect end to another fabulous Christmas dinner.

Every year, my mom manages to put together a dinner that raises the bar just a little bit higher. Someday, if I am ever in charge of Christmas, my only hope will be that I am able to execute a meal that‘s even half as good as my mom‘s. I’ve got some big shoes to fill.




Calamari in Spicy Tomato-Wine Broth

8 oz. dried angel hair pasta
generous splash olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 T. golden raisins
2 T. capers
2/3 cup dry white wine
1 T. tomato paste
1 roma tomato, diced
1/2 t. crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 lb. calamari, cleaned, tubes sliced into rings
salt and pepper to taste
minced parsley, plus sprigs for garnish

Cook the pasta.  In the meantime, heat the olive oil over a medium flame in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan.  When the oil is hot, add the garlic and raisins.  Saute for 1-2 minutes, or until the garlic becomes fragrant but does not turn golden. 

Next, add the capers, white wine, tomato paste, roma tomato, and crushed red pepper flakes.  Stir vigorously so that the tomato paste breaks up and blends with the wine.  Cook until the liquid begins to bubble gently, about 5 minutes. 

Now, add the calamari.  Cook for only about one minute.  The calamari should start to firm up.  Drain the pasta, and add the hot pasta to the pan with the calamari and tomato broth.  Stir so that each strand is coated with the sauce.  By this time, the calamari should be cooked through.  Season with salt and pepper to taste, and divide among two serving dishes.  Sprinkle with minced parsley and garnish with a sprig or two of fresh parsley. 

Sunday Dinner, Sunday Drinks

As I'm writing this post, I'm watching the snow coming down outside my window.  My roommate's pup is curled up on the chair next to me, and I'm drinking a ginormous cup of hot coffee.  All perfect things to do when it's cold outside.  Other perfect things to do when it's cold outside?  Start a slow-cooked, stick-to-your-bones Sunday dinner, watch football, and enjoy a smooth, spicy cocktail!

Yesterday, I started the day with an Irish coffee made with cinnamon and vanilla infused whiskey.  This spice blend made the whiskey taste completely appropriate for the season, and I think it would be great served on the rocks, but it will also lend itself to plenty of delicious wintry cocktails, which I will explore at a later time.  For now, I'll give you the recipe for the whiskey, and recommend throwing a splash of it in your coffee. 

Last night's dinner consisted of a Bacon-wrapped Pork Roast, and Polenta with Gorgonzola and Sage.  A meal like this is best enjoyed when it's chilly outside.  I seasoned both the roast and the polenta with sage, fennel, garlic, and black pepper.  This spice combination compliments heavier foods extrremelly well, as the fennel and sage cut some of the richness to create a perfet balance of flavors.  The flavorful pork and the creamy polenta pair well with a cocktail made with scotch and Cardamaro, a spicy, bitter Italian liqueur similar to Amaro, but distilled from cardoons and artichokes.  Similar to a Godfather (my favorite drink) in that this is made from smoky scotch and an Italian liqueur, I appropriately named this new drink "The Consigliere."  Toast to Tom Hagen if you try one. 

Cinnamon and Vanilla Infused Whiskey

1 pint bottle Irish Whiskey (I prefer Jameson)
2 cinnamon sticks, cracked
1 vanilla bean, split down the middle

Start by removing about 1 shot from the bottle (a/k/a, do a shot).  Next, add the cinnamon pieces and vanilla bean to the bottle.  Close tightly, and shake for about 30 seconds.  Let sit for at least 24 hours, shaking occasionally. 

It is ready to go after 24 hours.  If you keep the vanilla and cinnamon in the bottle, it will continue to develop flavor.  If you like the seasoning to be subtle, remove them from the bottle (you  may have to strain it and re-bottle). 


Bacon-wrapped Pork Roast

1.5 pound pork loin roast
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 T. minced sage
2 t. rushed fennel seeds
generous amount of cracked black pepper
splash olive oil
4-6 slices center-cut bacon

Combine all the ingredients except the bacon in a large bowl.  Allow the pork roast to marinate for about 2 hours, turning it occasionally and rubbing the spices in with your hands. 

Preheat the oven to 500.  After the pork has marinated, lay the strips of bacon side-by-side on a small plate.  Place the pork roast in the center of the bacon strips.  Now, carefully pick up the plate and the roast, and invert it, placing the pork roast in a shallow baking dish so that the bacon-side is facing up (as shown). 

Use string or roast ties (they look like rubber bands but are oven-safe and heatproof), secure the bacon to the pork.  Now, place the baking dish on the center rack of the oven, and bake for 15 minutes at 500. 

Once this is done, reduce the heat to 275.  Do not open the oven door.  Cook for 1 hour to 1 hour 20 minutes (if you are using a meat thermometer, you want the center to register at about 155 degrees)

When the pork is done cooking, remove it from the oven and let it rest for about 10 minutes.  Remove the string or ties, and carve into slices with a sharp knife.  Serve alone, or make a gravy out of the pan drippings (I like mine plain). 


Polenta with Gorgonzola and Sage

2.5 cups water
2 t. cracked fennel
1/2 cup instant polenta (I prefer Pastene brand)
3 T. chopped sage
2 T. butter
2 oz. mountain gorgonzola (also called "gorgonzola piccante")
salt and pepper to taste

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the water and cracked fennel.  Bring the water to a rolling boil.  Add the polenta in a slow stream, stirring constantly.  Continue stirring.  The polenta will start to thicken up; at this point, add the sage, butter, gorgonzola, salt and pepper (you may want to go easy on the salt; gorgonzola tends to be salty).  Continue to stir - do not stop stirring, or the polenta will become lumpy and stick to the pan. 

Once the polenta is thickened, pour it into a shallow baking dish.  Spread it with a spatula so that it is about 1/2" thick.  Let the polenta "set" for a few minutes, and serve in slices along with the pork roast. 


The Consigliere

1.5 oz. smoky Scotch (I like Islay single-malts, such as Ardbeg)
1.5 oz. Cardamaro
1 oz. Limoncello

Combine in a tumbler over 2 ice cubes.  Stir, sip, and stay off the road. 


The Wartime Consigliere

This version adds Grappa, a fiery, potent liqueur made in Italy from the remnants of wine grapes. 

Follow the recipe above, using only 1/2 oz. limoncello.  Add 1/2 oz. grappa.

Around the World in Eighty Bites - France

Mangez-vous Francais?  Until today, my answer was “Non!”  Honestly, traditional French cooking is not something I’ve cared to experiment with in the past.  I have no true defense for this other than my Italian pride going haywire (“French food is not the end-all and be-all of cooking, and it definitely isn’t better than Italian food!”).  In the past, French cuisine was glorified, and most of the world-famous restaurants followed French culinary tradition.  Ranhofer and Escoffier, two of the preeminent cookbook authors in culinary history, studied in France.  Classic French cuisine has historically been placed on a pedestal and set the standard next to which other cooking was compared.  I do not believe that French cooking should be held in higher regard than Italian cooking, but that being said, I cannot continue to be stubborn and refuse to try new things simply because some folks believe it’s better than my beloved cucina Italiana, especially when I now have readers in France!  New motto - No Cuisine Left Behind.

Since starting this blog, I have branched out and tried new ingredients, new cuisines, and new wines.  Epicurean adventures are my greatest joy in life, and I have eased up on some of my rigid beliefs and my stubborn rejection of anything believed to knock Italy out of the gold medal slot.  No more - it’s time to give France a chance!  Letting go of my culinary prejudice and resentment isn’t difficult when the cuisine in question is known for its excessive use of butter!

When researching French cooking and leafing through recipes, I made a conscious effort to avoid choosing recipes from Provence, which is a region in Southern France very close to Italy, and naturally the cuisines are very similar.  I wanted butter-laced, sauce-drenched French.  The recipes that most inspired me were found in Sarah Leah Chase’s “Pedaling through Burgundy.”  In the book, the author describes the dining experiences she had while biking through France, and I was drawn to her recipe for Baked Oysters in Chablis Cream.  Featuring a rich sauce of butter, heavy cream, and wine, this seemed perfect for my first foray into French cooking.  Naturally, I could not bring myself to follow her recipe without putting my own touch on it, which I accomplished by altering the spices.  I stopped into Mercato del Mare to purchase my oysters.  Rather than using Island Creek oysters, which I typically buy when I serve the oysters raw, I followed Liz and Keri’s suggestion and used Blue Points, which have a deeper “cup” shell.  The flavor of the Blue Points is slightly stronger than the Island Creeks, but they worked well with the sauce, especially when accompanied by a glass of Chablis.

Using many of the same ingredients found in the baked oysters, I made a celeriac (celery root) puree with Chablis, shallots, and green peppercorns.  Green peppercorns in brine can be found in gourmet food markets and better grocery stores.  They are spicy and pungent, but their texture is soft, making it easy to crush them with the flat edge of a knife or puree them in a blender.  They add a surprising kick to mellower flavors without giving off an unpalatable amount of heat, and they are a nice foil to the deep, soft flavor of the celery root.

These two recipes together, although they contain rich ingredients, make a surprisingly light meal.  Either recipe would be perfect for a dinner party followed by a night out!
　
Baked Oysters with Chablis Cream

12 oysters, freshly shucked, in the deep “cup” shell
1 T. butter
1 shallot, minced
½ cup Chablis
½ cup heavy cream
Pinch sea salt
Pinch white pepper
Cayenne pepper

Preheat the oven to 450. In the meantime, drain any of the juice from the oysters, reserving the juice in a small bowl.  Next, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat and add the minced shallot, cooking for a minute or two until the shallot is soft and translucent.  Once the shallot is cooked, add the Chablis and cook for an additional 5-7 minutes, or until the wine is reduced by about half.

Place a fine-meshed sieve over the bowl containing the oysters’ liquid.  Pour the wine and shallot mixture into the sieve, and use a spoon to press out any remaining liquid if necessary.  Reserve the cooked shallots for the Celeriac Puree recipe; return the liquid to the saucepan.

Now, add the cream, sea salt, and white pepper to the saucepan with the wine mixture.  Bring to a boil and cook for 6-8 minutes, or until the liquid has again been reduced by about half.  Reduce to very low heat.
Arrange the shucked and drained oysters in a baking dish.  Spoon 1-2 teaspoons of the Chablis cream sauce onto each oyster, then dust with the slightest amount of cayenne pepper.  Place the baking dish in the oven and bake for 4-5 minutes until the cream begins to turn golden at the edges.

Remove the baking dish from the oven, and using tongs, divide the oysters among serving dishes.  Serve alongside Celeriac Puree with Shallots and Green Peppercorns and glasses of chilled, but not cold, Chablis.
　

　
Celeriac Puree with Shallots and Green Peppercorns

2 medium-sized bulbs celeriac
½ cup Chablis
¼ cup heavy cream
3 T. butter
1 T. minced flat-leaf parsley
1 t. green peppercorns in brine, crushed with the flat edge of a knife
Reserved shallot from Baked Oysters with Chablis Cream recipe
Pinch white pepper
Pinch sea salt

Peel and dice the celeriac bulbs, and place in a large saucepan in steamer basket over approximately 1 inch boiling water.  Steam for 20 minutes, or until very tender.

When the celeriac is tender, remove the cubes from the steamer basket.  Drain the water, remove the steamer basket, and return the celeriac to the pan, along with the Chablis, cream, butter, parsley, and peppercorns.  Using a hand-held potato masher, mash the celeriac cubes until they have the consistency of chunky mashed potatoes.  If you could use a food processor, blender, or potato ricer if you desire a smoother consistency, but I like mine to have texture and substance.

Once the celeriac is mashed to your desired consistency, stir in the reserved shallot, white pepper, and sea salt.  Serve hot, garnished with a sprig of flat-leaf parsley.

Sunday Funday!

After spending the last several Sundays being too lazy to do much of anything, I finally had some motivation this week to whip together some great food and drinks!  Yesterday was the perfect Sunday Funday – it was raining cats and dogs, so I did not feel bad about sitting on my duff in my pajamas, eating, day drinking, and watching football and hockey all day.

Before I get to the recipes, I have to share my belief as to what constitutes a great Sunday Funday.  The presence of good friends (or at least cool roommates) is key, and you must be wearing cozy, comfy clothing.  If you’ve gone out the night before and you’re not feeling so chipper in the morning hours, that’s OK; Sunday Funday is all about starting off with a little “hair of the dog” and continuing from there.  Good breakfast food and drinks, some munchies, some substantial food, good company, and a few good games are just what the doctor ordered! 

I kicked off my Sunday Funday with the perfect brunch cocktail – the “Bourbellini.”  I am not much of a bourbon drinker, I’m a scotch girl.  However, I’m a firm believer that scotch should not be poured before noon.  Enter Bourbon.  Bourbon is sweeter; it is not smoky like scotch, and therefore, it is perfect for my two brunch recipes, The Bourbellini, and Bacon & Bourbon French Toast.  

I created Bacon & Bourbon French Toast because I love the taste of bacon combined with maple syrup, and I wanted to showcase that flavor combination in a recipe.  I also love French Toast, so I decided to stay true to my title and make French Toast containing bacon, butter, and booze.  Rich, satisfying, and unique, this may have to be my go-to weekend breakfast from now on. 

For my snack dish, I managed to replicate Estragon’s Garbanzos Fritos, or fried chickpeas.  Crunchy and flavorful, serve them in a bowl and eat them like popcorn.  They’re a lot more satisfying!  And for the main dish, I cooked up my Halftime Steak, named as such because it takes no longer than an average halftime break to prepare and cook. 

There are only a few weeks of football left, so I suggest you shop for these ingredients on Saturday, gather the troops, and treat yourselves to these recipes on your next Sunday Funday! 

Bourbellini

1 oz. bourbon

1-2 oz. peach nectar

champagne or sparkling wine

Pour the bourbon and peach nectar into a champagne flute or wine glass (or a pint glass, depending on your style).  Fill the rest of the glass with champagne/sparkling wine, stir gently.  (makes 1)

WARNING:  This is a prime example of a danger drink, so do me a favor and don’t drive if you’re drinking these babies...

Bacon & Bourbon French Toast

4 slices center-cut bacon

4 large eggs

2 oz. bourbon

8 slices spongy bread (plain white is fine, as long as it’s fresh)

butter

Powdered sugar

Maple syrup

In a frying pan with a large cooking surface (big enough to hold at least 2 slices of bread), cook the bacon over medium-high heat until crisp.  Turn off heat, remove the bacon from pan and set aside on paper towels; do not drain the bacon fat from the pan, but remove any charred bits.

Once the bacon has cooled enough to touch, crumble it into very small pieces (you may have to use a knife and chop it a little if it’s not crispy enough to crumble using your hands).   Place the crumbled bacon in a shallow dish large enough to lay one slice of the bread completely flat.  Add the eggs and the bourbon to this dish, and beat the egg, bacon and bourbon mixture with a fork or whisk until the eggs’ yolk and white are completely blended. 

Place the pan containing the bacon drippings over medium heat, and add a pat of butter.  In the meantime, lay one of the slices of bread in the egg mixture until it is completely coated on one side; flip it over and repeat so that both sides of the bread are completely covered with the egg mixture.  Now, add the coated bread to the pan with the bacon drippings, and fry for a minute or two on each side, or until the bread begins to turn golden brown.  Repeat with the remaining slices (you’ll probably have to work in batches), removing with a spatula and adding a little extra butter to the pan between batches (if necessary). 

Serve in stacks of 2-4 slices, dusted with a bit of powdered sugar.  Offer maple syrup, extra butter, and Bourbellinis! 









Garbanzos Fritos

1 can chickpeas, drained
splash olive oil
1/2 t. ground cumin
1/4 t. garlic powder
1 t. smoked paprika
1/2 t. fine sea salt
1 T. chopped fresh parsley

Dry the chickpeas completely, using paper towels.  This is a very important step; if they are not completely dry, they will not fry correctly. 

Heat a frying pan with deep sides over high heat, and add a generous splash of olive oil to completely coat the bottom of the pan.    Add the chickpeas to the pan and cook, shaking occasionally, until you can hear the chickpeas "pop."  If you have a splatter guard, you may want to use it.  This should take about 8 minutes.  You may have to work in batches, depending on the size of your pan. 

Drain the fried chickpeas on a paper towel, then add to a bowl and toss with all remaining ingredients until chickpeas are completely coated.  Serve warm.


Halftime Steak

2 steaks, about 1 inch thick (I use sirloin or filet mignon)
1 clove garlic, halved
kosher salt
coarsely ground black pepper
butter, softened
several paper-thin slices of garlic (think Goodfellas!)

Before kickoff, place your steaks out so that they've reached room temperature by halftime.

As soon as the 2nd quarter ends, heat a heavy-bottomed frying pan, preferably cast-iron, over high heat.  In the meantime, rub the steaks with the garlic clove halves, and then season each side of the steaks with a pinch of kosher salt and a generous coating of black pepper.

Once the steaks are seasoned, check to see if your pan is ready.  If you fling a few drops of water on the surface, they should bead up and dance across the pan rather than staying put and sizzling. 

Once the pan is ready, throw a few pinches of kosher salt into the pan, then add the steaks.  Sear for 1-3 minutes per side, using tongs to turn them over.  (Note:  This timing will result in a rare steak.  If you want yours medium or well, it takes longer.  Not sure how much longer; I eat my steak rare!)

Remove the steaks from the pan and set aside to rest for approx. 5 minutes.  This is very important that you do not touch the steaks while they rest; this step distributes the juices. 

When the steaks are ready to serve, sprinkle a few paper-thin slices of garlic on each one, and top with a pad of butter.  Once the butter has melted, they're ready to eat!  Good accompaniments are baked potatoes or seasoned boiled rice (I prefer rice with a dab of Aji Sauce, a recipe I am still trying to perfect and will post once I'm satisfied).

Homeless for the Holidays Bake Sale, Lemon Ricotta Cookies

Beginning tomorrow, the MSPCA Animal Care and Adoption Center is holding its “Homeless for the Holidays” bake sale to raise money for the shelter animals.  Thursday 12/9 – Sunday 12/12, from 9-5, delicious baked goods will be available to the public, including some bearing the Bacon, Butter & Booze logo!

After exhausting myself baking gazillions of treats for the shelter’s Howl-O-Ween bake sale, I swore I wouldn’t do this again unless I had help, but alas, I got down to business and baked my little heart out.  After all, it’s for the animals, and they don’t understand the concepts of being too busy or too tired.  So, I dropped the gloves (OK, oven mitts) and squared off to fight my fatigue in order to bake Roasted Garlic Focaccia Bread (click here for recipe), Canine Crumpets (click here for recipe), and several batches of delicious, moist, almost cake-like Lemon Ricotta Cookies (recipe below). 

If you are in the Boston area and able to swing by South Huntington Ave., you can sample some of these fabulous treats along with other homemade goodies and donations from some of Boston’s best bakeries.  If you cannot stop in, do try this yummy cookie recipe at home! 

Lemon Ricotta Cookies

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 stick unsalted butter, softened

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 eggs

1 2/3 cups whole milk ricotta cheese, drained if necessary*

Zest from 2 large lemons

Juice from 2 large lemons, separated

1 cup powdered sugar

Preheat the oven to 375.  In a large mixing bowl, combine the softened butter and the sugar.  Use an electric mixer, mix for approx 3-5 minutes, or until the sugar and butter are consistently combined.  Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well. 

Next, add the ricotta, lemon zest, and juice from one of the lemons.  Beat this again until well-mixed, then add the flour, baking powder, and salt.  Mix until wet and dry ingredients are fully incorporated and a sticky dough is formed. 

Using a spoon, portion approximately 2 tablespoons of the dough (roughly golf ball size) per cookie onto a baking sheet, leaving enough room between cookies for them to expand (they will end up about 3 inches in diameter).  It is best to prepare each baking sheet just before it is to go in the oven; if you prepare the sheets ahead of time, the dough will ‘melt’ and your cookies will turn out flatter, less fluffy, and may collide with each other on the sheet.   Bake for 15 minutes, or until the edges begin to brown slightly. 

While the cookies are baking, prepare the glaze.  In a small bowl, combine the juice of the 2nd lemon and the powdered sugar.  Stir until a smooth glaze forms.  Set aside.

Once you remove each round of cookies from the oven, give them about 20 minutes to cool a bit.  Using a small brush (silicone ones are best, as you don’t have to worry about bristles falling out), brush each cookie with the glaze and set aside to allow the glaze to harden for at least 2 hours. 

OPTIONAL:  Channel your inner artist - sprinkle the glaze with colored sugar while the glaze is still wet, or, once the glaze has hardened, use colored icing or glaze in a small-tipped tube to draw fun shapes or designs.

*  Use a high-quality ricotta (I prefere Dragone brand) – some brands tend to be watery, which will affect the texture of the cookies. 

Tapas Time!

As some of you may know, I an undergoing some major changes in both my personal and professional life right now.  I am very grateful that each change has been positive.  To celebrate the fact that I’ve finally landed a job in my field, my best friend took me out to Estragon, a tapas lounge in Boston’s South End.  This was a new experience for both of us, and it was certainly incredible.  I was able to try several new flavors and dishes (all of which I am going to try to duplicate), and I discovered the world’s most perfect snack food – Garbanzos Fritos!  Seated in plush, upholstered chairs under the famous photo of Salvador Dali clutching a wild cat, we dined for three hours, savoring every bite until we physically could not fit any more food into our stomachs. 

Paella and empanadas aside, I am not very familiar with Spanish cuisine, so I was excited to be able to taste some unfamiliar flavors (even if I was nervous about mangling the Spanish pronunciations and looking like a horse's arse).  We began with Garbanzos Fritos (crispy fried chickpeas).  Sorry, Ernesto’s Pizza and Chocolate Jalapeno Gelato, you’ve been bumped down the list!  These crunchy little legumes now occupy the #2 spot on my list of favorite food discoveries.  Single Malt Scotch, consider yourself warned – this competition is heating up!  I have literally been having dreams about Garbanzos Fritos, and my best friend and I decided that it’s a much better snack than chips or popcorn.

I am not quite sure how I’ll duplicate these, considering that I don’t own a deep fryer (my arteries are thankful).  I’m going to attempt to use my wok to fry up a few of these babies.  They were very flavorful, but not spicy – the main flavors were paprika and olive oil, and I’m fairly certain I detected a hint of cumin.  If/when I am able to duplicate this recipe, I will share it with you. 

Next, we ordered fried sweetbreads.  This dish was one of Saturday’s specials, so they were not on the menu and therefore I have no idea what the dish was called in Spanish, except for maybe delicioso.  The sweetbreads themselves reminded me of a milder, creamier, and more buttery chicken liver.  They were served lightly fried, and accompanied by chopped fresh garlic, lemon juice, and some minced parsley, similar to Italian gremolata. 

Our final shared plate was Higaditos de Pollo Salteados (Sautéed Chicken Livers, Sultan Raisins, Sweet Sherry, Crème Fraîche on Toast).  This was a perfect blend of sweet, spicy, and savory.  The chef kept the chicken livers whole, the sauce contained the plump raisins and thin slices of raw garlic, and it was all served on one large piece of toast, which my friend and I cut into smaller pieces.  I would be interested to see if these flavors would work together in a pate served spread on individual toasts, as this execution might be slightly less cumbersome. 

Finally, we ordered individual plates for our entrees.  My friend ordered Chuletillas de Cordero (Grilled Baby Lamb Chops with Garlicky Cauliflower Mash), and I ordered Callos (Spicy Tripe, Trotter, Chorizo & Morcilla Stew).  Don't know what tripe or trotters are?  The lining of a cow's stomach and pigs' feet, respectively.  Chorizo and morcilla are both Spanish sausages.  This stew was absolutely delicious!  I could identify the trotters right away, because I remember my mom telling me that their texture is somewhat gelatinous.  I'm sure my butchers could fork over a few of these so I could try this stew.  The tripe had the texture of chicken fat at first, only it melted in my mouth like butter and the texture was not chewy and off-putting the way non-crisped chicken fat tends to feel.  The stew was tomato-based and spicy, a combination I'll never refuse.  Callos is not a recipe for the unadventurous, but for those of you who think outside the chicken breast, I highly recommend trying this stew if you can find it on a menu, and if I'm able to duplicate it, I will post the recipe. 

I wish I had ordered wine instead of a cocktail (I ordered a cocktail containing chartreuse, lime juice, and basil).  My cocktail was unique and I would order it again, but I recently fell in love with Rioja, and I think a glass or two would have complimented each course, especially the Callos.  I did order a glass of sherry after the meal.  Choosing one from their menu was not difficult - their sherry menu contains vivid descriptions of each offering, and I was sold on the Lustau Palo Cortado “Peninsula" when I read the line, "Lovers of single malt scotches should be impressed."  I've only tried lighter, dry sherries; this one had much more body and reminded me of the flavor of Sam Adams Utopia, a limited edition specialty beer.  Was I impressed, as promised?  Si!

Food always tastes better when it is shared with friends and family, especially when the occasion is a celebration, but even if I stopped in to dine alone, I would be one happy camper.  Estragon far surpassed my expectations, and I am delighted to have four new recipes to attempt to duplicate!  If you're ever in Boston's South End, stop in for a plate or two.  You won't be disappointed. 

Linguine with Tomato, Pancetta, and Capers

It's Arrabiata!  It's Amatriciana!  No, it's - damn, I don't even have a catchy name for this tasty tomato-based sauce that marries the flavors of penne all'arrabiata and bucatini all'amatriciana.   

It all started yesterday at approximately 4:45pm.  I received a text from a friend:  "What should I make for dinner?"  He explained that he had no discernable food cravings.  I started to think about what I was going to make for dinner after I ran my errands and went to the gym.  After a long, tiring day at work, I was barely motivated to pour milk into a bowl of cereal.  The longer I thought about it, the more I realized that what I really wanted wasn't to complete my "To-Do list," but to sit down with a large bowl of pasta and a glass of Chianti.  Library books can be returned late; I don't mind paying a small late fee.  The world won't end if someone else buys the last purple corduroy 3/4 sleeve jacket at Ralph Lauren.  Living on a 2nd floor walk-up on the top of a massive hill guarantees that my glutes won't atrophy if I skip the gym for a day (OK, week...).  I can ignore anything except a food craving, and I'm not opposed to procrastinating except when doing so delays dinner. 

My decision was final.  I picked up the ingredients at the store, headed back to my apartment, uncorked the Chianti, cranked up the Frank, and got down to business slicing and stirring to create this savory, spicy tomato sauce with a perfectly balanced piquancy achieved by throwing in a few salt-packed capers just before adding the pasta to the pot.  Try this one sometime, and make sure to sing along with Sinatra while you cook!

Linguine with Tomato, Pancetta, and Capers

1 pound dry linguine
splash olive oil
1/2 pound pancetta, sliced into 1/2" x 1" strips
1 large or 2 small shallots, minced
1 garlic clove, halved
2 pounds fresh tomatoes, diced
1/2 cup dry white wine
generous amount coarsely ground black pepper
1/4 - 1/2 t. crushed red chile flakes
2-3 T. salt-packed capers (do not rinse)
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

Cook the pasta.  In the meantime, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large, heavy-bottomed pot.  Add the pancetta and cook until it begins to crisp, approx. 6-8 minutes.  During the last minute of cooking, add the minced shallots and the garlic clove halves.  Cook until the shallots become translucent, 1-2 minutes.  Do not let them burn. 

Add the tomatoes, wine, pepper, and crushed red chile flakes.  Cook for approximately 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently, until tomatoes have softened and just barely hold their shape.

Now, remove the garlic clove halves and add the capers and oregano to the tomato sauce.  Cook for 1-2 more minutes, stirring once or twice.  Next, reduce the tomato sauce to low heat and add the hot cooked pasta to the tomato blend, stirring until each strand of pasta is coated with sauce. 


Serve immediately, garnishing with a few fresh oregano leaves. 

Update - Italian Dessert Wine

As promised in my last post, I will share some info on the fabulous dessert wine my mom and I shared over Thanksgiving break.  The producer is Piandibugnano, and the wine was a 2006 Aleatico from Tuscany. 

I purchased this bottle at The Wine Bottega; if you cannot find it, it is available online through Wine Searcher.  Cheers!

Thanksgiving 2010

Five days ago, I celebrated Thanksgiving with my mom by sitting down to a fabulous dinner, a fabulous dessert, and - obviously - fabulous leftovers!  I had plenty to be thankful for this year, including each one of my readers.  It really means the world to me that so many of you around the world have clicked on this site.  Whether you landed on this page because you’re my friend, because it popped up when you searched for a recipe or ingredient on Google, or because someone referred you to the site, you are the reason I continue to cook instead of ordering delivery, and you are the reason I try new recipes instead of reverting to my same-old-same-old tried-and-true entrees.  Molto grazie, amici! 

I did not do any cooking this weekend – when I’m at my mom’s, she’s the chef.  I stay out of the kitchen not only because space is limited and it can be cumbersome for two people to work at once, but also because she hides bacon and cheese from me and it's torturous to stand there without helping or snacking!  It’s usually a better idea for me to stay on the couch and chat from afar. 

My mom kicked off the holiday weekend by making a hearty lentil and lima bean soup, along with a deliciously rich spinach, crab, and cashew quiche – she really had to twist my arm to get me to eat 2 slices in one sitting (ha, ha, ha)!  For Thanksgiving dinner, we had a salad featuring romaine lettuce with dried cranberries, pecans, and goat cheese; roasted Cornish hens, Thanksgiving “risotto” (brown rice cooked in broth with apples, sage, and sausage); roasted Brussels sprouts; roasted carrots; mashed potatoes with dill; and for dessert, pear-ginger crème brulee, which was absolutely fantastic - I will have to try to make that one myself!  I opened a bottle of Pinot Grigio with dinner, and to go with the crème brulee, we poured an Italian dessert wine whose name escapes me right now – I’ll have to write an update later, but I can tell you right now that it was deep red, tasted like ultra-concentrated spiced raspberries, and paired exceptionally well with brie.  On Black Friday we had Turkey Day Round II, and then on Saturday we dined on turkey burger patties with tarragon and green onion, served alongside rosemary roasted potatoes and buttered carrots. 

I didn’t hit the mall or the Kittery outlets on Black Friday – in fact, my mom and I made it a point to avoid major shopping centers.  Instead, we went to On The Vine marketplace in Stratham, NH – otherwise known as foodie heaven!  On The Vine boasts a delightful produce section, including fresh Brussels sprouts on the branch as well as loose sprouts.  My mom picked up our Thanksgiving sprouts here and was approached by another customer who asked, “Excuse me, are you taking all of the small ones?!?”  “Yup,” she replied, and continued carefully selecting and hoarding only the daintiest of the little green sprouts!  The market also sells fresh meat from The Meat House, fresh fish, local wines, craft beers, a wide selection of organic, vegan, and/or gluten-free grocery items, candies, teas, coffees, chocolates, and eco-friendly home and body care products.  On The Vine is a one-stop shop for anyone who dedicates his or her life to exceptional food.    

$50 later, I left On The Vine with a bottle of locally produced blueberry wine and a bottle of mead, which I like to call Irish Wine (mead is actually a fermented solution of honey and water that was historically consumed at Celtic pagan ceremonies held in the warmer months).  I also picked up a bar of Torrone, herbal tea, and a tub of Ciao Bella Chocolate Jalapeno gelato, which is probably now my 3^rd favorite food discovery (after single-malt scotch and Ernesto’s pizza).  My only regret is not purchasing 4 more bars of Torrone – not that I can’t find it in Boston, but I was eating it for breakfast this weekend and it didn't last nearly as long as I would have liked.     

Incredibly, I left Portsmouth the same size as I’d arrived.  As much as I love cooking, I also love it when my mom takes the reins and cooks her absolutely amazing holiday dinners.  How many days until Christmas?!?!?    

Around the World in Eighty Bites - Thailand

The next leg of my “Around the World in Eighty Bites” journey stops in Thailand.  Thai food is known for being spicy, but many Westerners don’t seem to be as apprehensive about trying Thai food as they do about trying Indian or Japanese dishes.  Thai food is definitely exotic, but in an approachable manner. 

My first foray into international cooking was over 10 years ago when I experimented with a Thai squid salad recipe I found in Jeff Smith’s “The Frugal Gourmet on Our Immigrant Ancestors.”  Never before had I used unfamiliar ingredients such as Thai curry paste (an ingredient made from chiles, garlic, ginger, and spices), lemongrass, or fish sauce, but I fell in love with Thai flavors and wanted to try as many Thai recipes as I could get my hands on.  Once I headed off to Northeastern University and lived in my first off-campus apartment, my mom bought me a Thai cookbook.  I still use that cookbook today, despite the fact that entire sections are peeling away from the binding and some of the pages are glued together by splashes of coconut milk or soy sauce.  The book features write-ups about each ingredient common in Thai cooking, many of which are available in the States, either in cities with large Asian populations or via mail order.  My curiosity was aroused by some of these hard-to-find foreign ingredients.  Thankfully, I live in a city with a sizable Chinatown, and I’ve been able to locate imported items like tamarind, shrimp paste, and fresh lychees. 

My Thai cookbook also gives a detailed history of Thai cooking and culinary traditions.  I loved learning about the philosophy of the Five Flavors – hot, salty, sweet, sour, and bitter – and how these five flavors are incorporated into each dish.  I like that kind of playful balance that creates a party in one’s mouth!  It was also interesting to learn that traditionally, Thai women were sent to live in temples for years at a time.  In these temples, they learned the art of food preparation, including not only cooking, but garnishing.  The women learned to carve fruits and vegetables into elaborate edible figurines for presentation at formal meals.  These temples still exist in modern Thailand, but they are open to the public for tours, and cooking lessons are now available to men as well! 

Although I’ve tried many Thai recipes, I still have not made Pad Thai, Thailand’s most famous dish. I will someday.  My all-time favorite Thai recipe (so far) is a quick coconut-based curry with chopped pineapple.  Traditionally made with pork, this recipe can also be made using chicken or seafood, as I have done in the recipe below.  If you like it a little spicier, add some crushed red chile flakes or fresh minced chiles.  This recipe is light, yet rich, and like most Thai food, it pairs well with an ice-cold lager or ale. 

Seafood Curry with Pineapple

1 T. coconut or vegetable oil

1 shallot, minced

2 cups fresh pineapple, chopped into bite-sized pieces

1 can coconut milk

2 T. Thai green curry paste (Thai Kitchen is a good brand)

2 T. soy sauce

1 T. fish sauce

1 T. lime juice

1 T. grated fresh ginger

½ t. freshly ground black pepper

1 can sliced water chestnuts, drained

1 can baby corn, drained and sliced into bite-sized pieces

½ pound squid, sliced (see note)

½ pound firm whitefish, such as cod, sliced into bite-sized pieces

½ cup green onions, sliced into thin rings

½ cup shredded basil

½ cup chopped cilantro

Heat a large pot over medium-high heat, and add the coconut or vegetable oil.  When oil is heated, add the shallot and cook for 1-2 minutes, or until it has started to soften.  Do not let the shallot burn.  Next, add the pineapple to the pan and cook for 1-2 more minutes, stirring frequently. 

Add the coconut milk, green curry paste, soy sauce, fish sauce, lime juice, ginger, black pepper, water chestnuts, and baby corn to the pan.  Cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the curry paste is fully dissolved and the liquid has reached a low boil. 

Now, turn the heat up to high.  Once liquid is boiling, add the squid, fish, green onions, basil, and cilantro.  Cook for 1-3 minutes, or until the fish has firmed up and the squid begins to curl up.  Serve immediately over cooked jasmine rice. 

Note:  In traditional Thai cooking, squid is not cut into rings as is common in Mediterranean cooking.  Rather, it is cut into squares, and the inside of the squid’s tube is scored with a knife so that the pieces curl up into bite-sized cylinders when cooked.  To prepare squid in this fashion, cut each tube in half lengthwise, then cut each piece in half crosswise.  Using a sharp knife, make shallow slits in criss-cross pattern across the inside of the squid’s tube, being careful not to cut all the way through.  It is now ready to be cooked using a quick, high heat method, such as boiling or stir-frying. 

$80 wine + $8 pitchers = One Happy Blogger!

Last night was one of the most perfect Thursdays of my life.  Accompanied by a foodie friend, I attended a Barolo tasting, followed by dinner at small pizza joint in the neighborhood.  Not a glamorous evening, but neither of us could have been more pleased.  Great food and wine, topped off with a slight chill in the air and a clear sky offering great views of the city and all its lights, and I was in heaven! 

First, we attended The Wine Bottega’s Barolo Abbondanza, where we tasted 13 wines (only 4 of which I could afford to buy on a regular basis), and two liquers,  including Cardamaro, an Italian cordial distilled from cardoons and infused into wine.  Can’t even put my finger on the flavors, but it tastes like winter.  It also tastes like it should be splashed into a dirty gin martini.  My friend suggested pairing it with something containing rosemary or tarragon – tarragon seemed like a great choice, as it would complement the spiciness of the liqueur.  A splash of Cardamaro in a spicy ginger beer would also be a tasty treat. 

Onto the wine – I’ve never had the pleasure of tasting Barolo before, not for lack of interest, but lack of funds – it’s one of Italy's pricier varieties.  As explained at the tasting, the Nebbiolo grape is difficult to grow and it doesn’t adapt well to the winemaking process.  I’m certainly glad those Piemontese showed some persistence!  The wine is very rich, spicy, and fragrant – I jotted down some notes on the pamphlet the store distributes listing the featured wines, and at first, the most notable scents I picked up in were cinnamon and eucalyptus, until I noticed that one of the older bottles – 2003 Brovia Barolo “Villero” – gave off an aroma that I could not immediately identify, but I later figured out – brand-new ballet shoes.  Shoes?!?  Yes, shoes – ballet shoes, to be exact.  Ballet shoes are made from the softest of soft leather, and they hug your feet and accentuate your arches.  The leather clings so tightly to your toes that your instructor will take notice when you aren’t pointing your feet to their full capability.  Barolo has a hint of that kind of leather, not Payless leather.  Barolo and ballerinas actually do have a lot in common – after all, a good ballerina has to possess an unimaginable amount of strength and go through years of rigorous training in order to move so fluidly on two toes that each step looks effortless, almost as if she is floating.  Making such a smooth wine from a difficult grape doesn’t seem so different. 

We left the tasting happy, impressed, inspired, but empty-handed.  The shop was crowded and we were both very hungry, so we moved on to the next spot – a small pizza joint called “Ernesto’s” that received many favorable reviews on Yelp.  We cut across Prince Street and made our way over to Salem Street, glancing at each doorway trying to find 69 Salem.  I knew the general vicinity, but we still had to search.  I wondered if it had closed?  We walked a little further until finally, we saw a small sign over a narrow doorway – we found it! 

The entire restaurant (if you can really call it a restaurant, it’s more of a take-out joint with tables) isn’t much bigger than my computer screen, but that is fine by me.  We weren’t looking for a great scene; we came for pizza, beer, and each other’s company.  Don't go to Ernesto’s for ambiance.  Don't go if you’re looking for extensive beer and wine selections.  Don't go if you're looking for gourmet, wood-fired pizzas made from 100% organic semolina dough and topped with house-made mozzarella di bufala and special DOGC pepperoni imported from the northwest corner of Italy's Emilia-Romagna region made from beef and pork sourced from a producer who only feeds his animals champagne and sustainably-produced caviar. Go to Ernesto’s when you want bright lights, a perfectly greasy slice or two, and pitchers of cheap beer.  Ernesto's is my 2nd favorite discovery, second only to single-malt scotch.

Ernesto's meat lovers' pizza is phenomenal - loaded with pepperoni, sausage, ground beef, and plenty of cheese.  Add some hot pepper flakes, and you're good to go.  Only thing that could have made it better would be crumbled bacon, but it was still pretty mind-blowing, especially when washed down with Budweiser (what is it about pizza and cheap beer that is just so fantastic?!?).  Whatever my friend had was equally delicious – tomatoes, ranch, plenty of gooey cheese, and I don't remember what else.  I'm making it my mission in life to try each variety that they offer.  A slice is a quarter pie.  They have a few bottled beers, but keep it real and go with a pitcher of Budweiser, for which they'll give you plastic cups.  Not plastic pint glasses, disposable plastic cups.  Sheer perfection!  The photos and artwork on the walls sparked a great discussion regarding Godfather I vs. II, the merits of the book, and what a waste of film III turned out to be ("III?  I'd use it as a coaster!" he said).  I am head-over-heels in love with Ernesto's, and I may have to stop in again this weekend. 

So there you have it – my idea of an absolutely perfect weeknight, centered around great drink, great food, great friends, and a great city neighborhood.  Cheers!