Last night was one of the most perfect Thursdays of my life. Accompanied by a foodie friend, I attended a Barolo tasting, followed by dinner at small pizza joint in the neighborhood. Not a glamorous evening, but neither of us could have been more pleased. Great food and wine, topped off with a slight chill in the air and a clear sky offering great views of the city and all its lights, and I was in heaven!
First, we attended The Wine Bottega’s Barolo Abbondanza, where we tasted 13 wines (only 4 of which I could afford to buy on a regular basis), and two liquers, including Cardamaro, an Italian cordial distilled from cardoons and infused into wine. Can’t even put my finger on the flavors, but it tastes like winter. It also tastes like it should be splashed into a dirty gin martini. My friend suggested pairing it with something containing rosemary or tarragon – tarragon seemed like a great choice, as it would complement the spiciness of the liqueur. A splash of Cardamaro in a spicy ginger beer would also be a tasty treat.
Onto the wine – I’ve never had the pleasure of tasting Barolo before, not for lack of interest, but lack of funds – it’s one of Italy's pricier varieties. As explained at the tasting, the Nebbiolo grape is difficult to grow and it doesn’t adapt well to the winemaking process. I’m certainly glad those Piemontese showed some persistence! The wine is very rich, spicy, and fragrant – I jotted down some notes on the pamphlet the store distributes listing the featured wines, and at first, the most notable scents I picked up in were cinnamon and eucalyptus, until I noticed that one of the older bottles – 2003 Brovia Barolo “Villero” – gave off an aroma that I could not immediately identify, but I later figured out – brand-new ballet shoes. Shoes?!? Yes, shoes – ballet shoes, to be exact. Ballet shoes are made from the softest of soft leather, and they hug your feet and accentuate your arches. The leather clings so tightly to your toes that your instructor will take notice when you aren’t pointing your feet to their full capability. Barolo has a hint of that kind of leather, not Payless leather. Barolo and ballerinas actually do have a lot in common – after all, a good ballerina has to possess an unimaginable amount of strength and go through years of rigorous training in order to move so fluidly on two toes that each step looks effortless, almost as if she is floating. Making such a smooth wine from a difficult grape doesn’t seem so different.
We left the tasting happy, impressed, inspired, but empty-handed. The shop was crowded and we were both very hungry, so we moved on to the next spot – a small pizza joint called “Ernesto’s” that received many favorable reviews on Yelp. We cut across Prince Street and made our way over to Salem Street, glancing at each doorway trying to find 69 Salem. I knew the general vicinity, but we still had to search. I wondered if it had closed? We walked a little further until finally, we saw a small sign over a narrow doorway – we found it!
The entire restaurant (if you can really call it a restaurant, it’s more of a take-out joint with tables) isn’t much bigger than my computer screen, but that is fine by me. We weren’t looking for a great scene; we came for pizza, beer, and each other’s company. Don't go to Ernesto’s for ambiance. Don't go if you’re looking for extensive beer and wine selections. Don't go if you're looking for gourmet, wood-fired pizzas made from 100% organic semolina dough and topped with house-made mozzarella di bufala and special DOGC pepperoni imported from the northwest corner of Italy's Emilia-Romagna region made from beef and pork sourced from a producer who only feeds his animals champagne and sustainably-produced caviar. Go to Ernesto’s when you want bright lights, a perfectly greasy slice or two, and pitchers of cheap beer. Ernesto's is my 2nd favorite discovery, second only to single-malt scotch.
Ernesto's meat lovers' pizza is phenomenal - loaded with pepperoni, sausage, ground beef, and plenty of cheese. Add some hot pepper flakes, and you're good to go. Only thing that could have made it better would be crumbled bacon, but it was still pretty mind-blowing, especially when washed down with Budweiser (what is it about pizza and cheap beer that is just so fantastic?!?). Whatever my friend had was equally delicious – tomatoes, ranch, plenty of gooey cheese, and I don't remember what else. I'm making it my mission in life to try each variety that they offer. A slice is a quarter pie. They have a few bottled beers, but keep it real and go with a pitcher of Budweiser, for which they'll give you plastic cups. Not plastic pint glasses, disposable plastic cups. Sheer perfection! The photos and artwork on the walls sparked a great discussion regarding Godfather I vs. II, the merits of the book, and what a waste of film III turned out to be ("III? I'd use it as a coaster!" he said). I am head-over-heels in love with Ernesto's, and I may have to stop in again this weekend.
Ernesto's meat lovers' pizza is phenomenal - loaded with pepperoni, sausage, ground beef, and plenty of cheese. Add some hot pepper flakes, and you're good to go. Only thing that could have made it better would be crumbled bacon, but it was still pretty mind-blowing, especially when washed down with Budweiser (what is it about pizza and cheap beer that is just so fantastic?!?). Whatever my friend had was equally delicious – tomatoes, ranch, plenty of gooey cheese, and I don't remember what else. I'm making it my mission in life to try each variety that they offer. A slice is a quarter pie. They have a few bottled beers, but keep it real and go with a pitcher of Budweiser, for which they'll give you plastic cups. Not plastic pint glasses, disposable plastic cups. Sheer perfection! The photos and artwork on the walls sparked a great discussion regarding Godfather I vs. II, the merits of the book, and what a waste of film III turned out to be ("III? I'd use it as a coaster!" he said). I am head-over-heels in love with Ernesto's, and I may have to stop in again this weekend.
So there you have it – my idea of an absolutely perfect weeknight, centered around great drink, great food, great friends, and a great city neighborhood. Cheers!
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