Linguine with Seafood and Citrus

I swear I’m not going to get emotional…I swear I’m not. Not gonna do it! Why am I getting all sentimental? Because I haven’t been inspired to write for a long time. But this weekend, I got the chance to hang out with some amazing friends, some old and some new, and throughout the day when the conversation turned to food, I began to miss cooking for the purposes of sharing recipes.

I don’t often get to share the actual dishes I create—but I can always share my recipes, and I love sharing food with others, even if it’s just through typed words on a page. It’s time to get back to what I love. So here goes. I don’t know how often I’ll get to post, I don’t know if anyone will read my recipes, and I don’t know if anyone will try to cook them…but I get to do what I love—cook, write, and share. Mangia, bitches!


Linguine with Seafood and Citrus

16 oz. linguine
2 oz. butter (1/2 a standard stick)
3-4 cloves garlic, pressed
1 bulb fennel, sliced
2 T. capers
1 t. dried oregano
½ t. crushed chile flakes
Rind and juice of 1 large lemon
Rind and juice of 1 orange
½ c. dry white wine
1 lb. calamari, tubes sliced into rings*
½ lb. large scallops, sliced into bite-sized pieces**
2 cups roughly chopped parsley
2 large handfuls arugula
Salt and pepper to taste
Splash extra virgin olive oil

Cook the linguine in heavily salted water. In the meantime, melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the garlic, being careful not to let it burn. When the garlic starts to become fragrant, add the fennel, capers, oregano, chile flakes, and lemon and orange rind (save the juice for the next step). Stir gently, stirring every few minutes, until the fennel slices have softened but are still firm.


Timing is important for these next few steps – when the pasta is about 2-3 minutes away from being cooked, add the lemon and orange juice and the wine to the pot with the fennel and seasonings. Turn the heat to high, and stir until the mixture is bubbling.  Add the calamari and the scallops, and cook for about a minute, stirring constantly. Add the parsley and arugula to the pot, stirring just until it is blended in.  Add the salt and pepper to taste.

Immediately after adding the parsley and arugula, drain the pasta and add the cooked pasta to the pot. Add a splash of olive oil, then toss to coat the pasta. Serve piping hot preferably with wine.


* If tentacles give you the willies you can use all tubes, but tentacles add texture and make for a more interesting presentation.

** Always use “dry” scallops—the texture and flavor are superior. They’re more expensive, but you get what you pay for, and you won’t be ingesting a chemistry project.

Around the World in Eighty Bites—Peru

My first introduction to Peruvian food came courtesy of a brief fling with a Peruvian guy. We split up quickly, but my love affair with Peruvian cuisine was the beginning of a beautiful friendship.


Peruvian Ingredients

From my first taste—Lomo Saltado with Aji Paste—to future finds such as my favorite, a layered potato dish called Causa, I’ve never tried a Peruvian dish I didn’t like. One of my close friends grew up in Peru, and she knows all the best Peruvian restaurants in and around Boston.

In recent years, Peruvian food has been touted as the next “It” cuisine. While Peruvian food is exotic enough to be a break from the ordinary, most Peruvian food is not so foreign that it cannot be easily made at home. Still, some authentic ingredients may not be easy to find if you do not live in an area with a significant Hispanic/Latino customer presence. Thankfully, we live in an era where anything we want is merely a click away, and there are plenty of online retailers selling authentic Peruvian foods.

I've created versions of several traditional Peruvian recipes that you can try at home!


Margarita Ceviche

2 cloves garlic, quartered
Juice of 2 limes
Juice of ½ orange
1 shot tequila anejo
1 habanero pepper, quartered
2 sprigs parsley, minced (leaves only)
3 sprigs cilantro, minced (leaves and stems)
A few paper-thin slices red onion
1 lb. dry sea scallops, cut into medallions*

Combine all the ingredients in a large glass or ceramic bowl. Cover with plastic film and place in the refrigerator. Let it chill for at least 2 hours (up to 12). Serve immediately in chilled bowls, or in margarita glasses with a salted rim!

* To cut the sea scallops, it helps if you place them in the freezer for about 30 minutes before slicing. When slicing, slice across the grain of the scallop as shown in the photo to the left—the blue lines in the photo represent the “grain” of the scallop, and the red line shows the direction that the knife’s blade should cut. Slice each scallops into 4 medallions of equal thickness.




Aji Sauce

1 thick slice baguette, torn into pieces
5 oz. can evaporated milk
2 aji amarillo chiles (use habaneros or serranos if you cannot find aji amarillos
2 small garlic clove, minced
2 sprigs cilantro, minced
1/3 c. grated cotija cheese
1 T. olive oil
Pinch smoked sea salt

Soak the bread for 10 minutes in the evaporated milk. Place the bread and milk in a blender or food processor with all remaining ingredients. Blend well until smooth. Keep refrigerated and use as a condiment.


Giant Corn with Cotija and Orange




Giant Corn

8 oz. dried giant corn (Goya sells this product)
4 c. cold water
2 dried de arbol or chipotle chiles
2 oz. cotija cheese, grated
Rind of1/2 orange
1 T. minced red onion
2 T. Aji Sauce (recipe above)

Soak the corn in the cold water overnight. Once soaked, drain the corn. Place it in a pot with the 2 dried chiles, cover with water by 2 inches, and bring to a boil. Boil for approximately 45 minutes, adding water if necessary.

Drain the corn and chiles and place in a bowl. When cool enough to touch, remove the chiles, mince them and place in the bowl with the corn. Add the cotija, orange rind, onion, and Aji Sauce. Blend well.

Serve either at room temperature or chilled.


Purple Potato Causa

1 lb. purple potatoes, peeled and diced
¼ c. grated cotija cheese
3 T. Aji Sauce (recipe above)
1 lime, halved
8 oz. canned crabmeat
2 T. mayonnaise
1 ripe avocado
Salt

Aji Sauce, to serve
Cilantro leaves, for garnish

Boil the potatoes in salted water. Drain and mash, incorporating the cotija cheese, Aji Sauce, and the juice from one of the lime halves. Set aside.

Combine the crabmeat and the mayonnaise and set aside. Next, mash the avocado with the juice from the remaining lime half and a pinch of salt.

Assembly will require a ring mold. To assemble the Causa, spoon a tablespoon or two of Aji Sauce onto a small plate. Set aside. Place your ring mold onto a sheet of parchment or waxed paper. Fill the mold with about 2 inches of the mashed potato mixture. Then, add a ½ inch layer of the avocado mixture. Finally, top the avocado with a 1 inch layer of crabmeat. Place the blade of a spatula under the parchment and over the plate containing the Aji Sauce. Slip the parchment out from the bottom, letting the mold slip onto the sauce (this will take practice—I ruined my first few tries!). Top with one or two cilantro leaves. Repeat until all ingredients are used, and serve chilled or at room temperature.

Giant Corn with Cotija and Orange



Margarita Ceviche

Purple Potato Causa

Peruvian Small Plates

Feast of the Seven Fishes (Festa dei Sette Pesci)

I love this time of year.  Christmas lights aglow, I get to wear cute hats and fuzzy sweaters, and I get to scour recipes trying to decide what seafood dishes to serve on Christmas Eve, a/k/a the Feast of the Seven Fishes. 

The Feast of the Seven Fishes, or festa dei sette pesci, is an Italian-Catholic culinary celebration of seafood that springs from the tradition of abstaining from meat on Fridays and holy days.  There are as many theories about the significance of the number seven as there are fish in the sea, so I won't venture a guess; I'll just be glad that as a good little Italian girl, I have yet another valid reason to buy seafood! 

If you and your loved ones follow the "seafood on Christmas Eve" tradition and need some recipe ideas, here are seven of my favorite seafood dishes.  Buon Natale!

Sea "Smores"

Olive oil

6 large sea scallops

Finely ground black pepper

12 parmesan crisps (see below) or ¼” thick toast rounds

1 batch porcini sauce (see below)

Dry off the scallops with paper towels so that there is no moisture on the scallops’ surfaces.  Dust the scallops with finely ground black pepper. 

Place a heavy-bottomed pan over high heat and brush with a thin coat of olive oil.  Add the scallops.  Sear the scallops for 1-2 minutes per side, turning regularly.  A golden-brown crust should form on the outside of the scallops; cook no more than 5-6 minutes total, depending on their size.  Remove from the pan; set aside. 

Place six of the crisps on a plate.  Spread 1-2 teaspoons of the porcini sauce on each crisp in a thin layer.  Next, place one of the seared scallops on top of the sauce on each crisp.  Finally, place one of the remaining parmesan crisps on top of each sea scallop, creating a bite-sized scallop sandwich.  Serve with a crisp, dry white wine. 

Parmesan Crisps

Coarsely-grated parmesan cheese

Heat a non-stick pan over medium-high heat.  Sprinkle about 2 T. parmesan in 2-inch circles on the pan (most standard-size pans will fit 3-4 crisps).  When the parmesan begins to melt and bubble, remove from heat and set aside to cool for a few minutes.  Using a spatula, carefully scrape the crisps off the skillet, making sure to keep them in one piece.  Place the crisps on paper towels to absorb some of the grease; set aside until ready to use. 

Hint:  Always make a few more than required to allow for any that break.

Porcini Sauce

¼ c. dried porcini mushrooms, broken or snipped into very tiny bits

¼ c. Boiling water

Splash whiskey

Splash heavy cream

Salt and finely ground black pepper

1/8 t. cornstarch

Soak the porcinis in the boiling water.  When they have softened, add the porcinis and their soaking liquid to a small saucepan.  Place over medium-low heat; add the whiskey, cream, salt, and pepper.  Cook, stirring constantly, until small bubbles begin to form on the surface of the liquid.  At this point, add the cornstarch, stirring constantly, until it is fully dissolved and the sauce begins to thicken.  Once the sauce is the consistency of melted chocolate, remove from heat and use a rubber scraper to transfer into a small bowl. 

 



Lobster Potato Salad

1.5lbs potatoes (red or Yukon Golds work well)

1-2T. butter

meat from 1 1lb. lobster, or 1 cup prepared lobster meat 

2-4 green onions, sliced into thin rings

juice from 1/2 lemon

splash olive oil

salt & pepper to taste

Slice the potatoes lengthwise into quarters, then slice into half-inch wedges.  Place these in a pot and fill with enough water to cover by at least an inch.  Salt the water, bring to a boil, then simmer until the potatoes are fork-tender.  When they are cooked, drain them and set them aside to cool.  In another similar-sized pot, melt the butter over high heat so that the butter begins to brown slightly.  Add the potatoes, remove from heat immediately, and toss the cooled potatoes with the melted butter.  Set aside.

While potatoes are cooking, slice the green onions and put them in a large bowl.  Next, add the lobster meat.  If you are using a whole lobster, break the lobster apart overtop of the bowl so that any flavorful juices are not lost. 

Once the meat is removed from the lobster, or if you are using prepared lobster, use your fingers to tear the meat into small chunks.  Add the cooked and buttered potatoes, lemon juice, olive oil, and salt and pepper.  Toss until all ingredients are evenly distributed, then cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. 

Once the salad has chilled, you are ready to serve.  Place on a plate or in a shallow bowl over lettuce leaves. 

Calamari in Spicy Tomato-Wine Broth

8 oz. dried angel hair pasta

generous splash olive oil

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 T. golden raisins

2 T. capers

2/3 cup dry white wine

1 T. tomato paste

1 roma tomato, diced

1/2 t. crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 lb. calamari, cleaned, tubes sliced into rings

salt and pepper to taste

minced parsley, plus sprigs for garnish

Cook the pasta.  In the meantime, heat the olive oil over a medium flame in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan.  When the oil is hot, add the garlic and raisins.  Saute for 1-2 minutes, or until the garlic becomes fragrant but does not turn golden. 

Next, add the capers, white wine, tomato paste, roma tomato, and crushed red pepper flakes.  Stir vigorously so that the tomato paste breaks up and blends with the wine.  Cook until the liquid begins to bubble gently, about 5 minutes. 

Now, add the calamari.  Cook for only about one minute.  The calamari should start to firm up.  Drain the pasta, and add the hot pasta to the pan with the calamari and tomato broth.  Stir so that each strand is coated with the sauce.  By this time, the calamari should be cooked through.  Season with salt and pepper to taste, and divide among two serving dishes.  Sprinkle with minced parsley and garnish with a sprig or two of fresh parsley.



Baked Oysters with Chablis Cream

12 oysters, freshly shucked, in the deep “cup” shell

1 T. butter

1 shallot, minced

½ cup Chablis

½ cup heavy cream

Pinch sea salt

Pinch white pepper

Cayenne pepper

Preheat the oven to 450. In the meantime, drain any of the juice from the oysters, reserving the juice in a small bowl.  Next, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat and add the minced shallot, cooking for a minute or two until the shallot is soft and translucent.  Once the shallot is cooked, add the Chablis and cook for an additional 5-7 minutes, or until the wine is reduced by about half.

Place a fine-meshed sieve over the bowl containing the oysters’ liquid.  Pour the wine and shallot mixture into the sieve, and use a spoon to press out any remaining liquid if necessary.  Reserve the cooked shallots for the Celeriac Puree recipe; return the liquid to the saucepan.

Now, add the cream, sea salt, and white pepper to the saucepan with the wine mixture.  Bring to a boil and cook for 6-8 minutes, or until the liquid has again been reduced by about half.  Reduce to very low heat.

Arrange the shucked and drained oysters in a baking dish.  Spoon 1-2 teaspoons of the Chablis cream sauce onto each oyster, then dust with the slightest amount of cayenne pepper.  Place the baking dish in the oven and bake for 4-5 minutes until the cream begins to turn golden at the edges.

Remove the baking dish from the oven, and using tongs, divide the oysters among serving dishes.  Serve with chilled, but not cold, Chablis.

Monkfish Medallions with Sherried Roasted Red Pepper Sauce

For the sauce:

1 roasted red bell pepper, chopped

1/4 c. Amontillado sherry

1 garlic clove, chopped

2 t. smoked paprika

2 T. heavy cream

2 T. olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

For the monkfish:

1 monkfish tail, cut into 1.5 inch thick medallions

flour seasoned with salt and pepper, for dredging

olive oil, for frying

First, make the sauce.  Combine all the ingredients in a blender, puree until liquefied, and set aside. 

Take each of the monkfish medallions and dredge in the seasoned flour, making sure to shake off any excess flour.  Set aside.  Heat a large, heavy bottomed frying pan.  When it is hot, add a generous splash of olive oil.  Once the olive oil is heated and covers the entire surface of the pan, add the monkfish medallions and cook for 2-3 minutes per side until slightly golden.  Remove from heat when they are done.  

To serve, place 2-3 medallions on a plate and drizzle with the Sherried Roasted Red Pepper Sauce. 

Farfalle with Smoked Salmon and Champagne Cream

1 lb. dried farfalle

1 jar Classico Alfredo

1/2 cup champagne

1/4 cup frozen peas, thawed

2 T. capers

dash cayenne pepper

generous amount of coarsely ground black pepper

4 oz. smoked salmon, sliced into thin strips

1 jar caviar (no need to go expensive, American lumpfish works fine!)

Cook the pasta.  In the meantime, combine the Alfredo, champagne, peas, capers, cayenne, and pepper in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan.  Heat over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the sauce begins to bubble slightly. 

Add the cooked farfalle to the saucepan.  Stir to combine until all the pasta is coated with the sauce.  Now, add the smoked salmon.  Stir just until combined, then serve immediately, garnishing with a spoonful of caviar.  Enjoy!!!

Shellfish Risotto

generous splash olive

1 leek, sliced (white part only)

1 large or 2 small fennel bulbs, thinly sliced, a few fronds reserved for garnish

1 1/2 cups arborio rice

1/2 cup prosecco

5 cups shellfish stock

1 pound calamari, mostly tentacles - slice tubes into 1/4" rings

1/2 pound cockles or other small clams

1 T. capers

sea salt

parsley, to garnish

Heat the shellfish stock to a low simmer.  In a separate large, heavy bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat, then add the leek and fennel.  Saute for about 5 minutes, then add the arborio rice.  Cook for another 2-3 minutes, stirring frequently, then add the prosecco.  Lower the heat, and stir continuously until the prosecco has been absorbed. 

Now, add a half-cup of shellfish stock.  Stir continuously until the liquid has been absorbed.  Repeat this process until the rice has absorbed the liquid and is almost fully cooked.  In the meantime, place the calamari and the clams in another pan with a bit of olive oil and a splash of the shellfish stock.  Cover, and steam until the clams have open and the calamari has firmed up.  Set aside a few clams in their shells for garnish, remove the meat from the rest and discard the shells. 

When the rice is almost fully cooked and you're on the last addition of liquid, add the calamari, clams, and capers.  Continue to stir until the last of the liquid is absorbed.  Finish with sea salt.  Serve in individual bowls with a clam shell or two, garnished with fennel fronds. 

Food Finds North of Boston, Getting Creative With Scallops

I spent this weekend with my mom in Portsmouth, NH, and as always, we did a lot of cooking.  Somehow we managed to get our hands on a late-season batch of green tomatoes – every time we’ve made fried green tomatoes since mid-August, I’ve said, “I can’t believe I'm going to have to wait til next summer to eat these again!”  Each batch has made a liar out of me – there’s always a few stragglers waiting for us in the tomato bins at Applecrest Farms.  Will the ones we made yesterday be 2010’s final fried green tomatoes?  Only time will tell. 

A trip to Applecrest is not complete without a visit to their Traveling Barnyard – a fenced-in area where kids (and dorky adults like me) can roam amongst goats, sheep, ducks, geese, and chickens, with a separate enclosure for the llamas and alpacas, and a sweet old Shetland Sheepdog to keep the flocks in line.  Because I fear that I will trip over a child or goat, I prefer to stay outside of the fence where I can participate with little to no claustrophobia. 

For 50 cents, little paper cups full of grain kibble can be purchased to hand-feed the animals.  Most will calmly eat straight from your hand, but some – one goat in particular – have their sights set on larger prizes.  Yes, a mother goat jumped up and grabbed the paper cup right out of my hand and proceeded to devour the entire thing, paper cup included!  I wish the poor goats knew that while high in fiber, paper is not the best-tasting snack available. 

I thought that apple cider, peach nectar, honey crisp apples, sharp farmhouse cheddar, a basket of perfectly ripe figs, and of course, green heirloom tomatoes, was enough fresh food to snack on for the two days I was visiting, but my mom told me that we had one more stop to make.  Apparently, a new store opened in Kittery, Maine, and she wanted to check it out.  I went along for the ride, and when we pulled into the parking lot, my eyes nearly popped out of my head – Enoteca Italiana, an Italian market whose storefront closed in May – had reopened in a new location!  This was cause for celebration. 

A few months ago, my mom and I pulled up to Enoteca to pick up our usual olives, cold cuts, sausages, and cheese, only to see a “Closed” sign hung on the door and boards covering the windows.  “My heart hurts!” I proclaimed.  Neither of us knew of any other store in the area that carried the top-quality, authentic Italian foods that Enoteca offered, and it was devastating to think that paisans living in Portsmouth, Kittery, York, Eliot, and Berwick would have to drive an hour south to Boston just to find a decent slice of mortadella!  Granted, none of those small towns are known for having a strong Italian-American presence, but as the slow food movement continues to grow, Italians and non-Italians alike will turn to shops like Enoteca, seeking a return to flavorful food and an escape from the mass-produced, overprocessed products that line the shelves and deli counters at big-box supermarkets.  We left with a tub of buttery Castelvetrano olives, a package of sliced mortadella studded with peppercorns and pistachios, a bottle of crisp Falanghina, a batch of grapefruit ricotta cookies, and enormous smiles on our faces, knowing that we’d never have to buy crappy capicole again.

Our final stop was Seaport Fish, a seafood market in Rye, NH.  Just like Mercato del Mare, Boston’s seafood heaven, Seaport Fish offers top-quality catch, great variety, and the kind of customer service that makes you feel like you’re their only customer.  They’re my go-to seafood market when I’m away from home.  When I started this blog in August, I made it a point to communicate with the merchants who provided me with the ingredients I needed to make my recipes.  Liz and Keri, the lovely ladies who own Mercato del Mare, have been a great source of not only seafood, but inspiration, and while chatting with them via e-mail they mentioned that they’re always looking for creative scallop recipes.  This was my Quickfire Challenge; I've been on a mission to make an out-of-the-ordinary scallop dish.  My "a-ha!" moment waited until this weekend to arrive.

So what exactly would I do with those sweet, white cylinders?  Pan-seared scallops over pasta?  Yawn.  Bacon-wrapped?  Been there, done that.  Ceviche?  Blahhhhh.  I’ve got it – Sea Smores!  Put a scallop in the marshmallow’s place, make a sauce based on dark brown porcini mushrooms to resemble the chocolate, and sandwich them between parmesan crisps.  I thought it was worth a try. 

I did make my Sea Smores, but next time I do it, I will not use the parmesan crisps.  Never having made parmesan crisps before, I did not realize that they are greasy.  Thin rounds of French bread toasts topped with grated parmesan and toasted under the broiler would be far more finger-friendly.  Regardless, I will include the recipe as I made it, using parmesan crisps.  If you don’t mind a little grease, they’re delicious! 

When purchasing scallops, be sure to buy “dry” scallops, which means that the scallops were not soaked in water.  Scallops absorb water, and if chemicals are added to the water, the scallop will absorb even more.  By buying dry scallops, you’re assuring that you’re not paying for water.  (Learn more about scallops here on Mercato del Mare's Fish Facts page!)

Sea Smores

Olive oil

6 large “dry” scallops

Finely ground black pepper

12 parmesan crisps (see below) or ¼” toast rounds

1 batch porcini sauce (see below)

Dry off the scallops with paper towels so that there is no moisture on the scallops’ surfaces.  Dust the scallops with finely ground black pepper. 

Place a heavy-bottomed pan over high heat and brush with a thin coat of olive oil.  Add the scallops.  Sear the scallops for 1-2 minutes per side, turning regularly.  A golden-brown crust should form on the outside of the scallops; cook no more than 5-6 minutes total, depending on their size.  Remove from the pan; set aside. 

Place six of the crisps on a plate.  Spread 1-2 teaspoons of the porcini sauce on each crisp in a thin layer.  Next, place one of the seared scallops on top of the sauce on each crisp.  Finally, place one of the remaining parmesan crisps on top of each sea scallop, creating a bite-sized scallop sandwich.  Serve with a crisp, dry white wine. 

Parmesan Crisps

Coarsely-grated parmesan cheese

Heat a non-stick pan over medium-high heat.  Sprinkle about 2 T. parmesan in 2-inch circles on the pan (most standard-size pans will fit 3-4 crisps).  When the parmesan begins to melt and bubble, remove from heat and set aside to cool for a few minutes.  Using a spatula, carefully scrape the crisps off the skillet, making sure to keep them in one piece.  Place the crisps on paper towels to absorb some of the grease; set aside until ready to use. 

Hint:  Always make a few more than required to allow for any that break.

Porcini Sauce

¼ c. dried porcini mushrooms, broken or snipped into very tiny bits*

¼ c. Boiling water

Splash whiskey

Splash heavy cream

Salt and finely ground black pepper

1/8 t. cornstarch

Soak the porcinis in the boiling water.  When they have softened, add the porcinis and their soaking liquid to a small saucepan.  Place over medium-low heat; add the whiskey, cream, salt, and pepper.  Cook, stirring constantly, until small bubbles begin to form on the surface of the liquid.  At this point, add the cornstarch, stirring constantly, until it is fully dissolved and the sauce begins to thicken.  Once the sauce is the consistency of melted chocolate, remove from heat and use a rubber scraper to transfer into a small bowl. 

* If you cannot find dried porcini mushrooms, they can be purchased online.