Pumpkin, Parmesan and Porcini Dip

Last week, I was forced to rely on my creativity to save a recipe from the brink of disaster just in time to pack it up and bring it to the Boston Blog and Tweet Patriots Potluck. Intending to bring a bowl of hot pumpkin and bacon dip, I quickly assembled all my ingredients, but when I opened up my package of bacon, I began to panic – mybacon had spoiled! What’s a girl to do?!?

It was too late to go buy bacon, so I remembered the words of a friend who recently told me that adding truffle oil to pasta was “cheating,” because truffle oil makes everything better. Hmm…people say the same thing about bacon! Maybe a bit of truffle oil…and some porcini mushrooms?

Yeah…I “cheated” and added the truffle oil. Guess who didn’t even miss the bacon?!?!?

The dip turned out great, and the party was lovely! Great dishes by yours truly, @itakepicsoffood (Goat Cheese and Tomato Bake with Garlic Toasts), @BOSSwappers (Guacamole, Tomatillo Salsa), @urbanmusewriter (Peach Cobbler), @jodiBean328 (Buffalo Wing Dip), and our host, @bosbacherlorette,who made a great salad to lighten things up and hooked us up with delicious sweet and savory soufflés by Chef Yves Bainier and wines provided by 90+ cellars, a private wine label that partners with highly regarded wineries around the world to sell high-quality wines at affordable prices.  Great wine, great food, great people, and the Pats clinching the AFC East title? Sunday Funday at its best! 

Try this recipe when you need a break from your typical gameday dips!


Pumpkin, Parmesan and Porcini Dip

2 T. / 30 g. butter
1 clove garlic, halved
3 T. / 50 mL Irish whiskey or scotch
Handful dried porcini mushroom bits
1 small pumpkin or winter squash (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded, and grated with the large holes of a box grater
Pinch dried thyme
1t. /5 g. chipotle pepper flakes
8 oz. /230 g. cream cheese
8 oz. /230 g. sour cream
12 oz. / 340 g. parmesan cheese, shredded
1 T. white truffle oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. When butter is melted, add the garlic and cook for 3-5 minutes, or until butter begins to foam. Reduce heat to simmer, remove the garlic, and add the whiskey and porcini mushroom bits. Cook for about 1 minute, stirring frequently.

Add the grated pumpkin, thyme, and chipotle flakes. Stir until combined, and cook for approximately 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the mixture seems dry, add about a tablespoon of water so that the pumpkin does not stick to the pot.

Next, add the cream cheese and stir until it is melted and blended with the pumpkin. Add the sour cream, and again, stir until it is blended. Finally, add the parmesan cheese, and stir until the parmesan is completely melted. Season with the truffle oil, salt and pepper and blend well. Serve with tortilla crisps or toasted bread.

VARIATION: If you have leftover dip, toss about ½ cup of the dip with a bowl of steaming hot pasta!


* Nutritional info: serves 10. 324 calories, 25 g fat, 7 g carbohydrates, 16 g protein.




Pumpkin, Parmesan and Porcini Dip, foreground

Dip tossed with cooked linguine

Turbot in Sherry Cream Sauce with Cranberries and Porcini Mushrooms

If you read Bacon, Butter & Booze on a regular basis, you know that there is little that excites me more than cooking with something I’ve never tried before. When I saw turbot featured in Mercato del Mare’s “Today’s Catch” newsletter, I couldn’t wait to try it!

Turbot is a flat fish, similar to flounder or sole, with a delicate flavored flesh and a texture similar to cod. Be careful not to overcook it, and you’re in for a real treat! Turbot is often simply cooked in a wine sauce, but I’ve dressed it up a bit in a Spanish-inspired cream sauce featuring seasonal touches of cranberry and porcini mushroom. This recipe is perfect to serve on a crisp, cold night with roasted potatoes and a glass of aged sherry.


Turbot in Sherry Cream Sauce with Cranberries and Porcini Mushrooms

For the Cranberries and Porcini Mushrooms:
¼ c. amontillado sherry
¼ c. unsweetened dried cranberries
1 T. dried porcini mushroom bits*

For the Turbot:
1 lb. /455 g. turbot fillets
¼ c. amontillado sherry
Pinch salt

For the Sherry Cream Sauce:
2 T. olive oil
1-2 cloves garlic, minced
Pinch saffron threads*
¼ c. amontillado sherry
2 t. fresh thyme
½ c. heavy cream
Cranberries and Porcini Mushrooms, as prepared above
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

A few sprigs fresh thyme, for garnish


Start by preheating the oven to 350, then prepare the cranberries and porcini mushrooms. Heat the sherry in a saucepan or in a microwave, almost to a boil. Pour over the dried cranberries and dried porcini mushrooms; set aside.

Now, place the turbot fillets in an ovenproof baking dish. Pour the sherry over the fillets and sprinkle with salt. Place in the oven and bake for 8-10 minutes.

In the meantime, prepare the sauce. Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat, then add the garlic and the saffron. Saute, stirring frequently, for 2-3 minutes or until the garlic becomes fragrant and turns golden. Do not let the garlic burn! Next, add the sherry and cook for a minute or so more, stirring constantly. Add in the thyme, heavy cream, the cranberries and porcini mushrooms along with the sherry that they soaked in, and salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir constantly for another minute or so.

Next, take the fish out of the oven. Using a fish spatula or a pancake turner, lift the fish from the baking dish and place on individual plates. Pour the sauce over each portion of fish, and garnish each plate with a sprig or two of fresh thyme.


* To purchase ingredients used in this recipe, click the link(s) below:

Fungus Among Us fam001 Fungus Among Us Organic Porcini Mushrooms- 2x0.5oz (Google Affiliate Ad)

Frontier Saffron 1 gram Bottle 18401 (Google Affiliate Ad)

Nutritional info: 313 caloreies, 16 g fat, 10 g carbohydrates, 18 g protein.

Food Finds North of Boston, Getting Creative With Scallops

I spent this weekend with my mom in Portsmouth, NH, and as always, we did a lot of cooking.  Somehow we managed to get our hands on a late-season batch of green tomatoes – every time we’ve made fried green tomatoes since mid-August, I’ve said, “I can’t believe I'm going to have to wait til next summer to eat these again!”  Each batch has made a liar out of me – there’s always a few stragglers waiting for us in the tomato bins at Applecrest Farms.  Will the ones we made yesterday be 2010’s final fried green tomatoes?  Only time will tell. 

A trip to Applecrest is not complete without a visit to their Traveling Barnyard – a fenced-in area where kids (and dorky adults like me) can roam amongst goats, sheep, ducks, geese, and chickens, with a separate enclosure for the llamas and alpacas, and a sweet old Shetland Sheepdog to keep the flocks in line.  Because I fear that I will trip over a child or goat, I prefer to stay outside of the fence where I can participate with little to no claustrophobia. 

For 50 cents, little paper cups full of grain kibble can be purchased to hand-feed the animals.  Most will calmly eat straight from your hand, but some – one goat in particular – have their sights set on larger prizes.  Yes, a mother goat jumped up and grabbed the paper cup right out of my hand and proceeded to devour the entire thing, paper cup included!  I wish the poor goats knew that while high in fiber, paper is not the best-tasting snack available. 

I thought that apple cider, peach nectar, honey crisp apples, sharp farmhouse cheddar, a basket of perfectly ripe figs, and of course, green heirloom tomatoes, was enough fresh food to snack on for the two days I was visiting, but my mom told me that we had one more stop to make.  Apparently, a new store opened in Kittery, Maine, and she wanted to check it out.  I went along for the ride, and when we pulled into the parking lot, my eyes nearly popped out of my head – Enoteca Italiana, an Italian market whose storefront closed in May – had reopened in a new location!  This was cause for celebration. 

A few months ago, my mom and I pulled up to Enoteca to pick up our usual olives, cold cuts, sausages, and cheese, only to see a “Closed” sign hung on the door and boards covering the windows.  “My heart hurts!” I proclaimed.  Neither of us knew of any other store in the area that carried the top-quality, authentic Italian foods that Enoteca offered, and it was devastating to think that paisans living in Portsmouth, Kittery, York, Eliot, and Berwick would have to drive an hour south to Boston just to find a decent slice of mortadella!  Granted, none of those small towns are known for having a strong Italian-American presence, but as the slow food movement continues to grow, Italians and non-Italians alike will turn to shops like Enoteca, seeking a return to flavorful food and an escape from the mass-produced, overprocessed products that line the shelves and deli counters at big-box supermarkets.  We left with a tub of buttery Castelvetrano olives, a package of sliced mortadella studded with peppercorns and pistachios, a bottle of crisp Falanghina, a batch of grapefruit ricotta cookies, and enormous smiles on our faces, knowing that we’d never have to buy crappy capicole again.

Our final stop was Seaport Fish, a seafood market in Rye, NH.  Just like Mercato del Mare, Boston’s seafood heaven, Seaport Fish offers top-quality catch, great variety, and the kind of customer service that makes you feel like you’re their only customer.  They’re my go-to seafood market when I’m away from home.  When I started this blog in August, I made it a point to communicate with the merchants who provided me with the ingredients I needed to make my recipes.  Liz and Keri, the lovely ladies who own Mercato del Mare, have been a great source of not only seafood, but inspiration, and while chatting with them via e-mail they mentioned that they’re always looking for creative scallop recipes.  This was my Quickfire Challenge; I've been on a mission to make an out-of-the-ordinary scallop dish.  My "a-ha!" moment waited until this weekend to arrive.

So what exactly would I do with those sweet, white cylinders?  Pan-seared scallops over pasta?  Yawn.  Bacon-wrapped?  Been there, done that.  Ceviche?  Blahhhhh.  I’ve got it – Sea Smores!  Put a scallop in the marshmallow’s place, make a sauce based on dark brown porcini mushrooms to resemble the chocolate, and sandwich them between parmesan crisps.  I thought it was worth a try. 

I did make my Sea Smores, but next time I do it, I will not use the parmesan crisps.  Never having made parmesan crisps before, I did not realize that they are greasy.  Thin rounds of French bread toasts topped with grated parmesan and toasted under the broiler would be far more finger-friendly.  Regardless, I will include the recipe as I made it, using parmesan crisps.  If you don’t mind a little grease, they’re delicious! 

When purchasing scallops, be sure to buy “dry” scallops, which means that the scallops were not soaked in water.  Scallops absorb water, and if chemicals are added to the water, the scallop will absorb even more.  By buying dry scallops, you’re assuring that you’re not paying for water.  (Learn more about scallops here on Mercato del Mare's Fish Facts page!)

Sea Smores

Olive oil

6 large “dry” scallops

Finely ground black pepper

12 parmesan crisps (see below) or ¼” toast rounds

1 batch porcini sauce (see below)

Dry off the scallops with paper towels so that there is no moisture on the scallops’ surfaces.  Dust the scallops with finely ground black pepper. 

Place a heavy-bottomed pan over high heat and brush with a thin coat of olive oil.  Add the scallops.  Sear the scallops for 1-2 minutes per side, turning regularly.  A golden-brown crust should form on the outside of the scallops; cook no more than 5-6 minutes total, depending on their size.  Remove from the pan; set aside. 

Place six of the crisps on a plate.  Spread 1-2 teaspoons of the porcini sauce on each crisp in a thin layer.  Next, place one of the seared scallops on top of the sauce on each crisp.  Finally, place one of the remaining parmesan crisps on top of each sea scallop, creating a bite-sized scallop sandwich.  Serve with a crisp, dry white wine. 

Parmesan Crisps

Coarsely-grated parmesan cheese

Heat a non-stick pan over medium-high heat.  Sprinkle about 2 T. parmesan in 2-inch circles on the pan (most standard-size pans will fit 3-4 crisps).  When the parmesan begins to melt and bubble, remove from heat and set aside to cool for a few minutes.  Using a spatula, carefully scrape the crisps off the skillet, making sure to keep them in one piece.  Place the crisps on paper towels to absorb some of the grease; set aside until ready to use. 

Hint:  Always make a few more than required to allow for any that break.

Porcini Sauce

¼ c. dried porcini mushrooms, broken or snipped into very tiny bits*

¼ c. Boiling water

Splash whiskey

Splash heavy cream

Salt and finely ground black pepper

1/8 t. cornstarch

Soak the porcinis in the boiling water.  When they have softened, add the porcinis and their soaking liquid to a small saucepan.  Place over medium-low heat; add the whiskey, cream, salt, and pepper.  Cook, stirring constantly, until small bubbles begin to form on the surface of the liquid.  At this point, add the cornstarch, stirring constantly, until it is fully dissolved and the sauce begins to thicken.  Once the sauce is the consistency of melted chocolate, remove from heat and use a rubber scraper to transfer into a small bowl. 

* If you cannot find dried porcini mushrooms, they can be purchased online.

Battle of the Butchers

How many of you purchase your meat from butcher shops? I’m guessing not many. Old-school butchers seem to have gone the way of the dinosaurs and the Zack Morris cell phone, but I stumbled across two butcher shops in Boston’s North End - DiPaolo & Rossi and Sulmona‘s. I had to stop into both and decide once and for all who gave me the best steak.

I’ve shopped at a real butcher’s before - Hill’s Meat Market in the Wesleyville neighborhood of Erie, PA, my hometown - and I consider myself lucky to have grown up with the experience of walking into a small, family-run store and hearing my mom ask, “What’s fresh today?” and planning a meal around Donny’s recommendation. Sure, my mom and I also shopped at supermarkets and other specialty retailers, but as a kid, I remember our meat wrapped in thick paper the color of Crayola’s Burnt Orange crayons; no Styrofoam tray, no moisture-absorbing paper, no plastic wrap.

My Godfather Joe owned Joe Zak’s Market, a neighborhood grocery store in Pittsburgh with an on-site butcher (read more here). Although I was only three when Uncle Joe retired and closed the store, the article from the Pittsburgh Press style section reporting on the closing hangs in my kitchen, and I get to look at Uncle Joe and Aunt Eleanor while I prep. The article talks about the history of the store and the neighborhood’s reaction to the closing, and talks about how pro baseball players used to help Uncle Joe prep the turkeys for delivery. You’d never see an article like this about the local Stop & Shop going out of business.

 How did I evaluate DiPaolo & Rossi vs. Sulmona’s? At each store, I bought a 6 oz. Sirloin steak approximately ¾" thick. I cooked them at the same time, in the same pan, for the same amount of time per side, and with the same seasoning and sauce (recipe below). I allowed the flavors to speak for themselves, and I found that DiPaolo & Rossi’s sirloin was more tender, while Sulmona’s was tougher but more flavorful.

So who won? I’ve got to give them a tie - the only logical way to solve this dilemma would be a dance-off. In the big picture, the winner is the customer - buying meat from a local proprietor who cares about his/her product really does make a difference. Small, independent shops may not have the selection that big-box chains offer, but at the same time, you know the product hasn’t been sitting in a freezer case for months hoping to be thawed, and you won‘t smell more plastic wrap than meat when you open your package. The butcher will cut the meat as small or as large as you’d like, and you’re not going to be stuck cutting away ginormous chunks of fat. When you buy from a butcher, you get meat your way and you’re not at the mercy of some corporate store manager more concerned with administrative BS than what’s in your shopping bag. The best part of neighborhood shops is that while they don’t always have what you’re looking for, you know that if you ask for it, they will get it for you, or you could challenge yourself, walk in and ask, “What’s good?” and then base a meal around what they offer you - not so unlike a Top Chef challenge!

Obviously, steaks were on the menu, and I decided to base the meal on seasonal ingredients, using pumpkin, porcini mushrooms, kale, and a touch of bacon, butter, and booze. Serve these steaks with broiled polenta squares over braised kale. Complete the prep work ahead of time, and you can fix this meal in about ten minutes.

Sirloin Steaks with Whiskey Cream Sauce

2 oz. pancetta or uncured bacon
2 6 oz. sirloin steaks, approx. 3/4" thick, rubbed with salt and pepper
1 T. butter
1 shallot, finely minced
1 1/2 oz. whiskey
1/4 c. heavy cream
1 T. reconstituted porcini mushrooms, finely minced (see below)*
1 t. fresh thyme leaves

Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet (cast iron is preferable) over medium-high heat. Once the pan is hot, add the pancetta or bacon and fry until crisp. Remove from the pan and place on paper towels to absorb grease; pour grease off pan (I save bacon grease, it makes a great soup base!) When the pancetta or bacon has cooled, crumble it into small bits and set aside.

Turn the heat up to high. Add the steaks and cook for approximately three minutes per side for medium rare. Once the steaks are cooked, remove them and set aside on a plate. They will continue to cook and distribute their juices, do not disturb the steaks while they rest.

Now it is time to make the sauce. Remove the pan from the burner for a minute or so to reduce the heat so that the sauce ingredients do not cook too quickly and burn. Next, place the pan over low heat, and add the butter. When the butter has melted, add the shallots and saute them for a minute or so, stirring constantly. Now, add the whiskey, cream, mushrooms, and crumbled pancetta or bacon, stirring constantly until all the ingredients are blended. Remove from heat, pour sauce into a small bowl, and add the thyme, stirring until blended. Spoon a small amount over your cooked steak and serve.


Broiled Polenta with Pumpkin and Pecorino

several pieces dried porcini mushrooms*
water
1 cup polenta
salt and pepper
2 T. butter
1 cup shredded raw pumpkin
1/2 cup shredded pecorino romano
2 T. crumbled pancetta or bacon

In a small bowl, add 1 cup of boiling water to the porcini mushrooms. Soak for 10 minutes, then remove the mushrooms, chop finely, and set aside. Pour the mushroom soaking liquid into a large saucepan with 3.5 additional cups of water and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Bring to a boil.

When water has reached a rolling boil, slowly pour the polenta into the water, stirring quickly and constantly. When all the polenta has been added, continue to stir. Do not stop stirring, or the polenta could come out lumpy. The polenta will begin to thicken; keep stirring for about 5 minutes, until the polenta becomes very thick. Add the butter and stir until it is completely dissolved. Remove from heat, then pour into a 9 x 13 baking dish, spreading with a spatula so that the polenta forms an even layer approximately 1/2" thick. Set the polenta aside to cool, once it has cooled to room temperature, place it in the refrigerator to set for at least an hour. This step can be done the night before.

Once the polenta has set, cut it into 12 squares (for a nicer presentation, use a cookie cutter and cut them into rounds, saving the leftover polenta for a random snack). Place these on a baking tray, and preheat the broiler on high. Next, sprinkle the shredded pumpkin on top of each polenta round, making sure all the pumpkin is used. Repeat this step with the pecorino romano cheese, with the crumbled pancetta or bacon, and with the minced porcini mushrooms.

Place under the broiler for 5-8 minutes, or until the cheese has completely melted. Serve on top of a bed of braised kale.

* If you cannot find dried porcini mushrooms, they can be purchased online.


Braised Kale

Lacinato kale is also called Tuscan kale, dinosaur cale, or cavolo nero. Curly kale can be substituted if lacinato kale is not available.

1 bunch lacinato kale, stems removed, chopped into 1" thick strips
4 sprigs fresh thyme
pinch salt and pepper

Rinse the kale in water; do not dry. Add the wet kale to a large pot with a lid with the thyme, salt, pepper, and approximately 1/4 cup water. Cook over medium low heat, until the kale begins to wilt. Serve, season with additional salt and pepper if necessary.