Monday, October 4, 2010

Cold Weather Favorites

Yours truly, sporting sunglasses!
Ladies and gentlemen, summer in Boston is officially over.  Mother nature has been toying with us for several weeks now, temperatures dropping a few degrees here or there, but summer wasn't quite ready to give up the fight until this weekend.  Three events occurred that prove my point - the Red Sox ended their season, I spent Saturday with my best friends at Harpoon Brewery's annual Oktoberfest, and the temperature dropped low enough for my radiators to start churning out heat.  Because I am a food lover, I am not sad.  Cold weather ushers in a whole new assortment of delicious dishes, and when I woke up yesterday morning freezing cold and longing for an extra blanket, a light bulb appeared over my head.  That light bulb was shaped like a steamy bowl of soup.

Is there anything more cozy and comforting on a cold day than a pair of soft pajama pants, an oversized sweatshirt, and the smell of soup simmering on the stove?  If you come up with something, let me know - I'm at a loss.  Yesterday, I made a hearty pasta and bean soup (pasta fagioli), along with a pork tenderloin that I marinated in a garlicky-wine mixture and braised alongside kalamata olives.  The results were delicious, especially when washed down with a glass of Chianti, Tuscany's famous dry red.  Try these recipes for yourself when the temperature drops!


Pasta Fagioli (Italian pasta and bean soup)

Italian cooks traditionally add the rind of a wedge of parmesan or pecorino cheese to soups - it imparts a delicious, rich flavor without any heaviness.

2 oz. pancetta. sliced into small bits
1 small onion, minced
3 carrots, minced
3 celery ribs, minced
2-3 cloves garlic, crushed
3 bay leaves
1/4 t. cracked black pepper
1/4 t. crushed red chile flakes
4 cups chicken broth
1 lb. fresh tomatoes
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 can cannelini or borlotti beans
rind from piece of parmesan/pecorino
1 cup dry ditalini
splash olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

In a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot, fry the pancetta bits over medium-high heat until they began to crisp up.  Next, add the onion, celery, garlic, bay leaves, black pepper, and chile flakes, and cook for 8-10 minutes or until the vegetables have softened.  Do not let the onion and garlic burn.

Now, add the chicken broth, tomatoes, thyme, cannelini beans, and the parmesan/pecorino rind.  Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, then reduce to a simmer.  Cover the pot and simmer for 30 minutes. 

In the meantime, cook the ditalini in boiling water.  Be careful not to overcook it - in fact, it is better to drain it when the pasta is somewhat undercooked, since they will absorb more liquid once it is added to the soup.

After the pasta has cooked and the soup has simmered, add the cooked pasta to the soup pot.  Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon, making sure to scrape the bottom of the pan to release any of the browned pancetta bits that haven't yet made their way into the broth.  Continue stirring for about 5 minutes, then add a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper.  Stir again, test for seasonings, and add a little more salt and/or pepper if necessary.  Ladle into bowls and serve steaming hot.

 

Braised Pork Tenderloin with Kalamata Olives

2 T. olive oil, plus extra for browning
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 bay leaf
leaves from 1 sprig fresh thyme
1/4 - 1/2 t. crushed black pepper
1 c. dry red or white wine, plus extra if necessary
1 2-3 lb. pork tenderloin
1 cup kalamata olives, roughly chopped


Combine all the ingredients except the kalamata olives in a lidded container large enough to hold all the ingredients and allow them to move freely.  Allow the pork to marinate for at least 2 hours (up to 24), turning occasionally. 



Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pan with a lid for about 1 minute over high heat.  Add a splash of olive oil, enough to lightly coat the bottom of the pan.  Remove the pork from its marinade (reserving the marinade for the next step), shake off excess liquid, and add to the pan.  Brown the pork on all sides until no pink is showing and a brown crust begins to form. 

Next, add the reserved marinade and the kalamata olives to the pan, reduce heat to medium low, cover, and simmer for approximately 35 minutes.  Turn the pork 2-3 times throughout the cooking process.  If you see that the liquid is evaporating too quickly, add a bit more wine. 

Remove the pork loin from the pan, set aside to rest for 5 minutes before slicing.  Then, slice pork into half-inch thick rounds, and spoon some of the olive-wine mixture from the pan over the pork slices.  Garnish with fresh thyme and serve.

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