Linguine with New England Clam Sauce

Lovers of Italian food and shellfish have probably tried dozens of variations on the classic Linguine con Vongole, better known as Linguine with Clam Sauce.  I've tried several styles of this perennial favorite, but after an on-the-fly experiment, my method of choice is to prepare it using New England's famous steamers.  I like to call it "Linguine with New England Clam Sauce."



Soft-shell clams steaming

For my readers who have never visited New England, "steamers" are our colloquial term for soft-shell clams, which are traditionally steamed in their shells, then served with clam broth and melted butter.  Diners pull the clams from their shells, dunk them in the broth to rinse away any leftover sand, then slosh them in the butter, which is sometimes seasoned with garlic or wine. 

I would have never thought to use steamers in linguine and clam sauce until my old roommate, who loves clams so much I'm surprised she doesn't grind them up and snort them, came home with a plastic container full of steamers that were left over after a BBQ she had attended.  Instead of letting the host throw them away, she packed them up and said, "My roommate will be able to do something with these."  So she gave me the cooked clams and said, "Feed me."  (I'm paraphrasing - the conversation wasn't that brief)



Cooked steamers

Having just made a batch of fresh pasta, the first thing I thought of was to turn the steamers into clam sauce.  I poured the broth through a strainer and into a pot and reduced it, adding lots of garlic and some chile flakes.  Realizing that I had no parsley, which is the herb traditionally used in Linguine with Clam Sauce, I decided to experiment with the fresh tarragon I had on hand.  I minced up about a tablespoon and added it to the reduced clam broth, and I was pleased with the spicy depth that it added.  I served the sauce over the fresh pasta, and the end result is one of my most memorable creations. 

In more recent versions, I've added fresh parsley as well - I find that it brightens up the flavor a bit.  Pair this with a crisp, acidic white wine, and enjoy it outdoors while the sun is still shining - it's New England pasta perfection! 


Linguine with New England Clam Sauce

2 lbs. live steamer clams
1 T. fresh tarragon (or 1 t. dried)
2 cups dry white wine
1/4 - 1/2 t. red chile flakes
1 large or 2 small cloves garlic, smashed
1 lb. linguine
1 T. minced parsley
generous splash olive oil
1/4 stick butter

Place the wine, tarragon, and chile flakes in a large pot.  Heat to a boil, then add the clams.  Cover, then cook until all of the clams have opened.  Discard any that do not open. 

Using a slotted spoon, remove the clams from the broth.  Reserve the broth and set both the broth and the clams aside to cool.  Once the clams are cook enough to touch, clean them by removing the clam from its shell, then peel the wrinkly black membrane from the "neck" of the clam.  Discard the membrane and return the cleaned clams, along with the smashed garlic clove(s), to the cooled broth (don't add the clams while the broth is still hot, or the clams will continue to cook and become tough).  Refrigerate the clams in broth for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight - this allows for the garlic flavor to penetrate the clams. 

After the clams have marinated in the broth, remove them from the broth again.  Set the clams aside, and in a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the broth until it has almost reached a boil.  Add the parsley, olive oil, and butter, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook until the broth is reduced by about half.  In the meantime, cook the pasta. 

Once the sauce has reduced, add the cooked pasta and the reserved clams to the pot.  Cook for another minute or so, stirring until each strand of pasta is coated.  Because the clam broth is naturally salty, you will probably not need to add any additional salt, but you may want to add a grind or two of black pepper.  Serve hot, topped with a drizzle of olive oil.

A Stanley Cup of Clam Chowder

After 39 years, the Boston Bruins finally won the Stanley Cup. In the decade I've lived here, I've watched the Patriots win numerous Super Bowls, I watched the Red Sox "reverse the curse," and I saw the Celtics win a title, but a Bruins victory eluded me and other Boston hockey fans season after season after season. Considering that besides bacon, butter, and booze, the other thing I live and breathe for is hockey, I went a little wild celebrating on Wednesday night (Fun Fact: When Boston cops are dressed in full riot gear, they will not oblige your request for a high five). However, I didn't go so wild that I wasn't able to cook up a little victory meal for myself the next day.

Despite the fact that I went to work after staying out til 3:00am partying, and despite the fact that I had no energy and no voice left whatsoever, I found the motivation to do something that I've wanted to do for a looonnnnng time - I served New England Clam Chowder in a replica Stanley Cup. Yes, I am THAT dorky. A mixing bowl, a canister of sun-dried tomatoes, a roll of tinfoil, and a few random canned goods and spice jars later, and I had an adorable little faux-Cup. I also made a delicious batch of clam chowder containing bacon, butter, and booze!

While I daydream about serving this recipe to the B's out of the REAL Cup, you can whip up this great version of a New England classic!
　
　
New England Clam Chowder with Bacon, Butter & Booze

1/2 pound potatoes, diced
3 slices smoky bacon, chopped
2 stalks celery, minced
1 large shallot, minced
1 T. butter
splash smoky scotch
16 oz. clam juice
1/2 t. cornstarch
1 t. dried thyme
1 t. garlic powder
1 pint heavy cream
2 3-oz. tins smoked baby clams*
2 6.5-oz cans clams, or 1.5 cups cooked fresh clams
salt and pepper to taste
smoked paprika, to serve

Boil the potatoes until fork-tender; 5-7 minutes. Set aside.

In a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot, cook the bacon over medium heat until it begins to crisp along its edges. Add the celery, shallot and butter, and cook until the celery and shallot have softened up. Do not let the shallot burn.

Add the scotch, clam juice, cornstarch, thyme, and garlic powder. Cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring frequently, until the liquid begins to bubble. Next, add the heavy cream, clams, cooked potatoes, salt and pepper. Cook for another 5-7 minutes, until the liquid is completely heated through. Do not let it boil.

Serve in cups or bowls garnished with a dusting of smoked paprika.
　
* Smoked clams are packed in vegetable oil, which takes on a dark straw color. If you want your chowder ot remain pure white, drain the clams and discard the oil, then pat the clams dry on paper towels.