Restaurant Recap: O Ya, Boston, MA

The next time I complain about having bad luck, please remind me about the time I was lucky enough to snag bar seats at O Ya on a Friday night.

A few girlfriends and I decided to try O Ya, a Boston sushi restaurant famous for its creative preparations and impeccable presentation. We sat at the bar in full view of the theatre before us, watching three sushi chefs preparing a wide variety of dishes for each table of eager diners. Small, unassuming, and tucked away on East Street, a small side street off of Atlantic Ave., O Ya is the definition of hidden gem.

While I’d like to think that I have a way with words, I cannot pretend to have the talent to describe each of the preparations we sampled in O Ya’s Omakase, a 17-course tasting menu that can be customized to accommodate diners’ preferences. Every plate that came out had me saying, “There’s no way they’ll be able to top the last dish.” They made a liar out of me each and every time.

Paired with a few glasses of sparkling sake, here are the dishes we sampled in the Omakase, with a few additional plates added in along the way:

Kumamato Oyster – watermelon pearls, cucumber mignonette



Hamachi – spicy banana pepper mousse

Salmon Tataki – torched tomato, smoked salt, onion aioli

 

Warm Eel – Thai basil, kabayaki, fresh Kyoto sansho

Homemade Fingerling Potato Chip – burgundy truffle



Wild Santa Barbara Spot Prawn – garlic butter, white soy, preserved yuzu



Fried Kumamato Oyster – yuzu kosho aioli, squid ink bubbles

Wild Bluefin Maguro – soy braised garlic, micro greens

Kyoto Style Enoki Mushrooms – garlic, soy

Shima Aji & Santa Barbara Sea Urchin – ceviche vinaigrette, cilantro

Scottish Salmon – spicy sesame ponzu, yuzu kosho, scallion oil

Hamachi – viet mignonette, thai basil, shallot

Bluefin Tuna Tataki – smoky pickled onion, truffle oil

Shiso Tempura with Grilled Lobster – charred tomato, ponzu aioli

Eclectic Eel – tamago, foie gras, Kyoto sansho

Grilled Chanterelle & Shiitake Mushroom Sashimi – rosemary garlic oil, sesame froth, soy



Seared Petit Strip Loin of Wagyu Beef – smoked potato, grilled onion, fresh wasabi

Kushiyaki Of Strip Loin of Wagyu Beef – roasted onion, yuzu kosho, maple soy sauce



Foie Gras – balsamic chocolate kabayaki, Claudio corallo raisin cocoa pulp, sip of aged sake

We also tried three of the desserts:




Yuzu Curd – Almond, blackberry-jasmine, meringue

Warm Mochi cake – soy gelato, coconut kaffir, blackberry

Passion Fruit Mango – white chocolate coconut soy milk, lychee shiso

Chocolate Truffles

Other than the telephone number to call and make a reservation, there is little else you need to know about O Ya. Come in with an open mind and an empty stomach—O Ya will be one of the most memorable dining experiences you’ll have in Boston, and probably in your lifetime. Cheers!

Restaurant Week - The Method to My Madness, Restaurant Review - Forum (Boston, MA), Restaurant-Inspired Recipe

Restaurant Week in Boston officially kicked off last week! For two weeks, dozens of restaurants in the Boston metro area offer prix-fixe menus for lunch and/or dinner. Normal people browse the listings, check out a handful of menus, and pick a spot, but I am not a normal person. As usual, I scoured every single menu, making notations here and checkmarks there, creating The List that my friends have come to expect (though I suspect no one fully understands). 

There is a method to my madness. I only consider restaurants I haven’t yet tried, and I carefully evaluate restaurants and menus based on the following criteria:

• Value: Does the restaurant week price discount allow me to dine at a restaurant I couldn‘t otherwise afford?
• Choice: Does this restaurant offer three or more offerings per course?
• Differentiation: Does this menu offer one or more unique dishes and/or does the menu feature an ingredient or dish I’ve never tried?
• Special features: Does this menu offer any special features, i.e. a wine pairing or complimentary drink?

Once I’ve rated each restaurant based on those four criteria, I create a spreadsheet with columns for each of the criteria above. Then, each restaurant that meets that criteria is listed in the rows below. Now I calculate: restaurants that meet all four criteria are coded green, three out of four are blue, two our of four are yellow, and restaurants that only meet one out of four are not assigned a color.

Once I’ve color-coded my chart, my choices are based on if/when I can get reservations at the green restaurants. I always aim to hit four new restaurants, but usually I’m lucky if I can squeeze in two. However, I’m not going to complain about getting to try two new restaurants!

This year, my trusty spreadsheet got thrown for a loop for one reason and one reason only¾I never expected the need to create an “outdoor seating” column in March! Mother Nature certainly felt generous last week, blessing us with a sunny, 80-degree day (why she can’t wait until the weekend to give us these little gifts is beyond my comprehension). I ignored my spreadsheet completely and set out on a mission to sit on a patio.

at Forum, 755 Boylston St.

My mission landed me at Forum, a Back Bay fixture for trendy, manicured types who like to imbibe in style.  While I knew that Forum served dinner, its reputation as a place to sip cocktails with shiny strangers is what puts Forum on the map, at least among my age demographic. Had I not been desperate for a patio fix, I would have never considered Forum as a dining destination.

Whoa¾when I’m wrong, I cop to it. I was wrong. The meals my friend and I had at Forum were excellent! We had to wait a while for a patio table, but that’s not the restaurant’s fault; I blame a four-top of really stiff-looking MetroWest types that lingered at their table far longer than acceptable by any standard of courtesy. But, I enjoyed an Aviation at the bar while we waited for our table.

Having studied the menu earlier that day, I already knew what I was going to order, and knowing my friend as well as I do, I was fairly certain I could predict his picks as well. I had the Trio Tartare (tuna, steak, and salmon tartare), Salmon with Bulgur Wheat, Rapini, Pomelo, and King Oyster Mushrooms, and for dessert I had the Meyer Lemon Meringue with Graham Cracker and Earl Gray. My friend had the Tortellini (duck confit and butternut squash filling in sage brown butter), Mock “Wellington” (filet mignon in puff pastry with wild mushrooms and bordelaise sauce), and the German Chocolate Cake with coconut, pecans and Guinness.

My salmon dish was delicious. The fish was perfectly cooked, skin crisped and served atop a bed of bulgur wheat and rapini that had been pureed into a pesto-like sauce. The plate featured a few bite-sized bits of pomelo, and a few small sautéed king oyster mushrooms. Serving the rapini as a puree was a great idea, as its flavor blended very well with the bulgur. I liked that the eater could control how much or how little of the rapini went on his/her fork; otherwise, such a strongly-flavored vegetable could have been overpowering for diners that do not appreciate rapini’s ultra-bitter flavor.

The meringue? Eh. I like meringues, and my lukewarm reaction is certainly no reflection on the chef, I’m just not very likely to fawn over dessert. In fact, I would love to see more restaurants allow diners to skip dessert and instead choose an additional appetizer, a side dish, or an aperitif or cordial.

All of the appetizer and entrée dishes were amazing, but the one that I felt a compulsive need to replicate was the steak tartare. While I used to find the idea of raw beef repulsive, my mind opened up at some point. I’ve been on a mission to try steak tartare for a few weeks now, and the discounted price and small portion on the restaurant week menu allowed me to try it without committing to an entire order (not that there’s ever much of a chance that I’m not going to like a new dish, but I’m very mindful when it comes to animal proteins).

To make steak tartare, start with good, naturally raised sirloin¾if you can find grass fed sirloin, this would be the time to buy it. Although you can cheat and have your butcher grind it for you, true steak tartare is not made with ground beef, but with very finely chopped steak. Time to sharpen your chef’s knife!

I chopped and chopped and chopped until the steak was broken up into miniscule bits. However, I decided to stray from the classic steak tartare, and I flavored it a bit differently. Although I stuck with the classic capers and egg yolk, a bit of grated orange peel, ground coriander, and rose water gave a Middle Eastern flavor to my very first batch of steak tartare. If you’re a steak lover, try this recipe served with some toasted pita crisps! 



Recipe - Steak Tartare with Middle Eastern Flavors

8 oz/230 g top-quality sirloin
2 t/10 g ground coriander
1 t/5 g orange rind, very finely grated
½ t/2.5 g rose water
1 t/5 g salt-packed capers, chopped
Coarsely ground black pepper, to taste
2 egg yolks
Four whole wheat mini-pitas, quartered and toasted, to serve

Using your sharpest knife, chop the sirloin until its consistency is very fine, but coarser than ground beef. In a mixing bowl, combine the chopped sirloin, coriander, orange rind, rose water, capers, and black pepper. Using a wooden spoon, fold the seasonings into the chopped sirloin. Set aside in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to an hour.

After the sirloin mixture has chilled, divide the mixture in half. Using ring molds, press the steak into the molds on individual plates. Make an indentation in the top surface, creating a “well” for the egg yolk. Top the steak tartares with a raw egg yolk, and serve with quartered and toasted mini-pitas.

Nutritional information: Serves two. With pita crisps, 393 calories, 23 g fat, 25.9 g carbohydrates, 29.4 g protein. Without pita crisps, 273 calories, 22 g fat, 1.9 g carbohydrates, 23.4 g protein

Coppa (Boston, MA) - Restaurant Review, Restaurant Replica Recipe

Last week, I entered a new decade. Goodbye, 20’s, you were pretty damn fun; helloooo, 30 - I have a feeling you’re gonna be just as fun! Although I definitely had a brief freak-out over my old age, the fear didn’t last long. I refuse to believe that my ability to enjoy life is determined by the amount of time I’ve spent on this planet. As long as I can read good books, watch hockey, surround myself with interesting people, and eat good food, the next 70+ years are going to be just as awesome as the first 30.

Speaking of good food, I used my big ol’ birthday as a good excuse to finally try a restaurant that I’ve wanted to try for, oh, two years. A few friends and I gathered at Coppa, a popular, well-known restaurant in Boston’s South End that specializes in Italian-inspired small plates, unique salumi and variety meats. Knowing Coppa’s popularity, I made a reservation about a week in advance. Thank God, because the place is much smaller than I expected! Reservations are a wise choice - the bar area is pretty small, and it‘s likely to be packed because this place is friggin’ awesome.

I started the night with a cocktail, as one should on her 30th birthday. After a painstaking decision making process, I chose the Fumo sull’Acqua (Mezcal, citrus, and chili syrup). I found a new favorite “away” cocktail (as opposed to the Godfathers and dirty martinis I like to mix up at home). Smoky, slightly sweet, mildly spicy, and totally delicious - I could drink these every day.

While each of us ordered an individual entrée, we split several small plates, including arancini, duck prosciutto, and bruschetta con ricotta (crostini with sheep’s milk ricotta and hen of the woods mushrooms). Although the duck prosciutto was phenomenal (the stuff literally melts in your mouth), the dish that we all raved about for the rest of the evening was the bruschetta. The four of us split one small slice of bruschetta, yet it was so rich that we agreed that a larger portion would have been too much.

My individual dishes were the Panino di Riccio di Mare (sea urchin and salami panino with mustard seeds) and the Orecchiette con Trippa (house made orechiette pasta with tripe, beef tongue, pork belly, chick peas and parmesan). If you’re into sea urchin, this mini-panini is to die for!!! Coppa does NOT skimp on the sea urchin in this dish - pieces were literally seeping out of the sides with every bite I took, so I had to eat carefully. It is small, but like the other dishes we sampled, it was so rich that large portions are unnecessary.

The orechiette was good, but I am a tripe lover and I would have been happier with the dish if it had contained more tripe. However, it was still delicious - the pasta was done just right, and the tomato sauce was very light and subtle, as to not overpower the other flavors.

By the end of the evening when our waitress asked us if we were interested in dessert, I didn’t think I could do it (plus, I was wearing a very tiny Free People sweater that revealed my entire midriff¾ I wouldn’t have been able to pull off the look if I’d been full and bloated!). However, being my birthday, our server brought me a complimentary dish of their honey-walnut gelato, topped with a lit birthday candle. As if the food wasn’t enough to encourage me to return to Coppa, touches like this stick in customers’ minds and can be the nudge that will elevate a restaurant from “great” to “favorite.” And the gelato?!? One bite, and I was mentally kicking my own ass for not ordering it in the first place!!! It wasn’t overly sweet, and you could definitely taste the honey. This is one of the most perfect desserts I’ve ever had, and I’m not even a dessert person.

Overall, Coppa is now one of my favorite dining spots in Boston. It’s one of those places with a menu so unique that you’ll want to make sure you try everything on it at least once. Just like a carefully assembled All-Star team, there is no weak link in Coppa’s lineup.

Because age has done nothing to diminish my curiosity, I stopped by Whole Foods and picked up the ingredients I thought I’d need to try and duplicate Coppa’s Bruschetta con Ricotta. Of course, when I say “duplicate,” I really mean “replicate as closely as I can, then tweak it a bit to personalize it.” One characteristic of Coppa’s ricotta topping sparked my curiosity¾while the flavor of the hen of the woods mushrooms stood out, I don’t recall biting into any mushroom bits. Were the mushrooms pureed? Possibly, but I suspected that the chefs pulverized dried mushrooms and folded the powder into the ricotta. So that’s the technique I used. I wouldn’t know where to buy hen of the woods mushrooms if my life depended on it, so I relied on the dried porcinis and shiitakes in my pantry. Using my spice grinder, I buzzed them into a fine powder. Needing my own touch, I decided to add a bit of Spanish flavor with a splash of dry sherry, some fresh thyme, and smoked paprika. Also, I used regular cow’s milk ricotta rather than sheep’s milk ricotta.

This recipe’s concept is the same as Coppa’s, and the flavor is similar, but the finishing touches differ. If you can’t make it to Coppa, make this recipe!



Brushchetta con Ricotta with Thyme

8 dried shiitake mushrooms
4 dried porcini mushrooms
2 T. melted butter
16 oz. Whole milk ricotta
2 t. dry sherry
2 t. fresh thyme
1 t. olive oil
2 t. white truffle oil
pinch kosher salt

Toasted baguette slices
Several thyme leaves, to garnish
Pinch smoked paprika, to garnish

Using a mortar and pestle, spice grinder or coffee grinder, pulverize the dried shiitake and porcini mushrooms to form a powder.

In a deep mixing bowl, combine the mushroom powder and the melted butter. Mix well. Next, add all the remaining ingredients except for the baguette slices and garnishes. Using an electric mixer, beat well until the ingredients are all fully incorporated into the mixture and the mixture is nice and fluffy.

Spread a heaping spoonful of the ricotta mushroom mixture onto each toasted baguette slice. Top with a few fresh thyme leaves, and then sprinkle with a tiny pinch of paprika.

VARIATION: Instead of using the whipped ricotta as a topping for crostini, use it to sauce pasta. Simply use the recipe above to sauce 16oz. of dry pasta, adding about a teaspoon of salt, an extra dash or two of smoked paprika, and some additional thyme leaves.

Restaurant Week, Links I Love and Live By

Last night, my kitchen went unoccupied.  My friends and I took advantage of the Restaurant Week deals, and Umbria cooked for me!  Boston's Restaurant Week allows diners to choose three courses - a starter, an entree, and a dessert - for a fixed price.  Some restaurants offer more choices than others, and Umbria offered many more choices from the regular menu than many of the other restaurants.  I chose the tomato-basil soup, pappardelle with wild boar ragu, and cannolis.  Each course was sheer perfection.  My friends tried the house-cured prosciutto, seared ahi tuna, jumbo lump crabmeat, and filet mignon, which apparently had the texture of butter (Butter?  Yay!).  Rave reviews all around.

I'd love to try and duplicate the pappardelle with wild boar ragu, but A) where the heck do I find wild boar in Boston? and B) they garnished it with shaved black truffle.  I can't afford ingredients that are kept in locked cases.  I guess I could substitute pork shoulder for the wild boar, and I could drizzle the plate with truffle oil, but it would not be the same.  Umbria, I think I'm in love with you. 

Because I have no recipes to share today, I'll share the links to several food-related websites that I visit regularly.  Some are vendors, some are informative, and some simply inspire me. 

I'll start with the blog that started it all - my roommate's sister, Amy, started a food blog, and my roommate thought I'd be interested.  I was.  Her reflections on learning authentic Asian cooking are what inspired me to start my own blog.  I've always wanted to write about food, but I never knew where to start.  Amy's blog showed me how fun it is to follow someone's culinary journeys, so if you like my blog, check hers out:  Amy Learns to Cook and Bake. 

Culinate - this website makes me want to eat.  And eat.  And eat some more.  Whether its authors are sharing recipes, reflections and insights, information about varieties of food and agricultural practices, or profiling well-known chefs and cookbook authors, Culinate always leaves me inspired and hungry.

Mercato del Mare - they taught me how to shuck oysters, and they may have created a monster.  Their website features a list of what's available in the store each day, recipes, and a super-fun, super-informative fact sheet on different varieties of seafood!  If you live in or near Boston, stop in sometime and see why I rave.

Salumeria Italiana - This is where I buy my bottarga and cotechino sausages.  When I need authentic Italian ingredients, I know they're only a few T stops away.  The store employees are more than happy to help you find whatever you are looking for, only I must warn you - everything looks so delicious that you'll probably leave with about four times as many items as you intended to purchase.  And for non-Bostonians, they ship to all 50 states!

Local Harvest - This website allows you to search your geographic area for locally grown organic produce, humanely raised meats, and other local food products such as tea, honey, jam, etc.  I support sustainable agriculture and non-industrial farming methods, especially where meat is concerned - it is better for the animals, it's better for us, and it's better for the environment.  Check out what's available near you! 

Slashfood - A great website featuring articles about all things food.  Their photography is so fabulous that I can almost taste the pictures!

iGourmet - I routinely scour this website in search of hard-to-find imported items. 

Harvest Co-op - This is where I buy bulk herbs and spices, rice, beans, nuts, grains, etc.  Great selection of organic bulk goods, sustainably raised meats, and vegan meat and dairy substitutes.  They also have a great selection of organic wines, and the South Street location always plays good music!  Many co-ops in the eastern U.S. honor Co-op Advantage coupons; check out the last page to see if your local co-op particpates. 

I hope these links excite you as much as they excite me.  Soon, I will fire up the stove again, but until then, arrivederci!